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If you don't have Facebook (like me), you should still be able to view the video clip. https://www.facebook.com/reel/806502918244448/

Fully agree with you both. Fortunately the local dealer is one of the best for customer service with an excellent reputation. Although the battery came back as good on both tests, on arrival and after overnight charge, they have ordered a new battery and will keep the car until it has been fitted tomorrow. This is exactly what I wanted and if they hadn't agreed to this I would have followed TonyHSD's advice and bought one myself.

Your battery might get recharged by the dealers and pass the test just fine, however very likely it will die on you shortly after. Once a battery goes down more than twice it’s clear indication that it is time for a new one. If they refuse to change under warranty, you can buy yourself a new battery and take care afterwards and no need to have hassle with dealer service department. Less visits to dealers better for you and for your car. 👍

An update: The next day the battery state was even lower, car struggled to unlock, wouldn't unfold mirrors. Time for the AA again - booster did the job but had parking brake failure which eventually cleared. Mysteriously the centre multimedia screen started working again on it's own. Arriving at dealer to leave car on overnight charge they told me that the car probably shut the centre screen off to protect the cars other systems and rather than a fuse it was probably an indication of low voltage. Waiting to hear now if they are going to replace the battery, they say that they haven't changed many and don't expect to. As this is my 7th hybrid (yes, suppose I am addicted fan-boy) I do understand them and how to care for them. Haven't called out the AA to a Toyota ever and now twice in two days !

Perhaps get it to see the unrestricted white background / vertical bar and then stop and put a sticker over the camera 🤣😂 Or, instead of having your butler run in front of the car with a red flag, get him to hold up a 70 sign!

I think it would follow the curve of the plastic bumper. Try comparing it to one being sold on eBay.

Thats funny about the sticker. I wonder what the focus length on the camera is as you can just see someone making a stick with a sucker on one end for the screen and a picture of a speed sign on the other and stick it to the windscreen. A bit like 5th element film and that man with the empty hall way picture stuck to his head to fool someone looking through the peep hole. Or if the EU could have said please put in this tech for safety but make it a choice for the user instead of saying put in one of these tech and you have to not allow the user to be able to turn it off indefinitely. Make it by default all turned on as most people will leave it but those that dont be allowed to disable it until they decide to turn it back on. By all means force the car companies to put in the tech as this is a good thing and they wont unless someone pushes them. But in regards to saying you must do one of these items and not allow the user to disable them permanently I think is not such a good thing. I like that we move on with tech & safety but dislike that its forced upon you when the roads are really not up to how the tech can actually work. Just Glad Toyota went for the beeping on the over limit warning and not the haptic feedback on the pedal or steering. If in the manual it says its up to the user to make sure they are not speeding so it should be up to the user to disable the feature permanently if they dont want it. ok getting off my soap box now after that Rant 😉

New spec made by Yuasa, not bigger

This info can be found on the Toyota website, go to info on the wheels for each trim level to see size. https://www.toyota.co.uk/new-cars/yaris-cross/build?path=configure/5c933238-df10-41c5-b921-a2e4d25ef931/3d7732b3-bd9a-46f3-8017-a456b0dda9e8&u=4befe3b0-7f5c-4efa-a917-9c96cc1812c1 this is the excel trim

In the manual it also states that it will use the Map info from the sat nav if it cant find a speed limit sign. I have found if you are in a national speed limit and it sees the sign it will set it to the relevant speed. However if then half way through that road the map data says its a 30 then it will then change it to 30 until either it sees the national speed sign or the map data changes back to national speed. I have found this out because a country road I go down is a national and has signs at the beginning of the road but halfway through there is a little lane and it switches to 30 as I go past that road then a few meters later will switch to national. So I then found a site where they supply map data and you can see that the little road it on there as a 30 and the road is not signed as a 30 so its not picking up any road sign. This can also happen if you are on a road that is say 40 and it has not seen a sign for a while and you are for example driving in parallel to a 30 the sat nav can get confused and pick up the 30 from the map data. Its very annoying that is uses the map data since they only update it 4 times a year. I wish there was an option to say if you don't see the sign turn off and let the user know what the speed limit is. I know you can also configure how fast or how slow you want the speed limiter to be the speed it has seen so perhaps check that setting. I have mine set to if its a 30 I want it to be a 30 but you can set it to say +- 5mph or more.

Hello Adam - welcome to Toyota Owners Club. PS. We are based in the UK.

A beautiful sunny day for swimming, sunbathing and recharging the 12V car battery 😄 Note - if you place the solar panel outside the vehicle, charging will be better. Mutlu car battery replaced with Varta approx. 3 months ago.

VAG also had issues with the speed warnings & limiter only here in the UK due to us using MPH instead of KPH - took VAG a while to fix it. Peugeot / Citroen also had software issues in the past with an infotainment unit but again only here in the UK ( due to something BBC radio changed ) Vehicle manufacturers can have a product tried & tested to work fine in Europe, bring it over here to the UK & sometimes issues then crop up that requires the manufacturer to figure out a software fix.

A/C is powered from the HV battery. 12v battery is charged from the DC/DC converter powered by the HV battery. So the charging speed of the 12V is independent on the power consumption from the HV battery (which indeed consumes enough power to force the ICE to start up once in a while). Once the DC/DC is started (and that's what happens when the Ready indicator is lit) the battery is recharged. If you'd like to check how much of an impact some element has on the charging, check the voltage. Higher voltage means also higher current flow. Cig plug voltmeter is enough to determine if turning the radio or lights or whatever else has an impact on the 12V battery charging process 🙂

It does cope. I often sit in the rain listening to music with ac or heater on. the ice recharges the battery… yeah.. no drama

My car was with the dealership for 6 weeks. After a month I did lodge a complaint by email at which point I was given an anticipated delivery date for the parts. This helped me in that it gave me something to look forward to. Leaving the customer waiting without any idea of how long he is going to have to wait is surely not acceptable. I am pleased to say my Yaris is now back with me and running well.

Missus picked up her 24 MY Yaris Cross Excel, 2 X keyless fobs supplied & it has Falken 18" tyres. More tech fitted then my C-HR 😅

Yes, it was the fuse and not a easy location at all Why it blew, who knows, maybe the wireless charging pad I'm using, so I may stop using that.

Hi The Spare Wheel Kit is not on the Toyota options list but it is something my Toyota dealer offers So it may not be offered by all Toyota dealers They have charged £450 for the kit When I get the car in about 3 weeks I will take a photo and post it here John

Yeah, seen it now, v good

Agreed

AA solar chargers come with an OBD connector and Ring offer one as an extra with their panels.

I'm hoping to connect a trickle charger to the OBD but cannot find an adaptor with an OBD connection on one end and an SAE connection on the other. How do others manage to connect their solar powered tc to their car? The charger itself doesn't come with the one connection I can use. Help!

hi, first check the inside latch kids that its on off position, if not move it, if yes, open the window, you should play with it with your hands with power on and off and try to open the door from inside and outside same time and keep on playing with this kids latch and door handle till it will open and it will ! i hade same thing on same door in the end i open the panels both doors, and stuck the door latch on off position. don't go to mechanic it will make damage and will take lot of money for that and.... it will happhand to you again if you wont solve it like i did = perfect ! seams like its kind of staring problem its not the fist time i hear it with this bad door mechanism with the avensis . look here simple in the end done this simple and effective never had problems again:

Yes you can turn on Carista and use the app to monitor live data. Other apps to look into hybrid battery and 12v battery are hybrid assistant , Dr Prius . With Carista app full paid version you can do different settings, lights, dings, seat belts , locks etc

When my car was in for service they gave me a hybrid i drove to a supermarket and sat in the car in ready mode while the wife did some shopping i had the air-con and radio on and when the battery got to approx 1/4 the ICE kicked in boosted the battery then shut down again very quiet and seamless.

Job done and it was a lucky guess, it was the reverse switch on the gearbox. I guessed it was a dirty contact as the bulb end was only receiving 3v not 12v which was not enough to light the bulb. I didn't check the fuses because according to this web page, the same fuse runs loads of other stuff including fuel injection and as everything else worked including the engine I suspected the switch. So just in case people are having the same problem and finding this in search engines, here is how I swapped the reverse switch. I tried removing a wheel but this didn't help so it was all done from the top in the engine bay. First up, its impossible to see either the switch or the wiring connection. The usual tricks of phone photos and mirror did not work, I did it all by feel. First up was disconnect the connector. Having identified the switch by feel ( its a large 27mm nut with 2 wires coming off it located as per the diagram above) . Its at the back of the engine bay, don't confuse it with the thing at the front which looks like the switch but is not. Anyway having found the switch, I ran my fingers along the wire to find the connector which is located on top of the gearbox but to the left / engine side and hidden under various pipes. The connector is mounted on a metal bracket. It has an arrow shaped plastic connector which pushes through a hole and then the arrow shapes act like barbs to stop it coming out. On the bench you can push the barbs in and pull the connector free from its mount, however in the confines of the engine bay I just used force as it was going to be replaced anyway. Key is not to damage the wire in as that's still needed. Once the connector is free from its mount, you are granted the luxury of being able to see it, not that it helps much. The connector is the usual sort where if you squeeze a tab then it pulls apart, however working where its impossible to see and I could not feel the tab I just squeezed it in every direction while pulling until it came apart. Now to the switch end. Its 27mm and to remove it you need either a 27mm crows foot socket or better still a 27mm 27mm sensor removal socket. There is no room to get a spanner on it, I tried. These sensor removal sockets are a long reach socket with a groove cut in for the wire. Great tool but I didn't have one and as my MOT is up I didn't have time to wait for one to be ordered. As my switch was going to be binned I cut the wire. I didn't like doing this in case I was cutting the wrong wire, but needs be as needs must. I the n removed the sensor with a normal 27mm socket. It was a bit tight so I switched to my breaker bar to crack it open. Even if I had a spanner on it, it would have been too tight but with breaker bar it was an easy one hand job. The old wire is fitted with about 3 of these arrow shaped bar connectors which go through holes. I decided it was not work trying the near impossible task of removing them all so I left them in situ for now. Maybe access will be better from under next time its on ramps. I put the new wire alongside the old. The only thing to watch is that it is not rubbed against the clutch or gear operating mechanisms. I cable tied it out of the way but chose a point where I can easily remove the cable tie in the future. That was it , job done, tested and working

Finally found the Trek cars on Autotrader. That number is now down to 8 - best sounding one was a 2021 in Honiton, Devon. Reckon I’ll just look at the standard Corolla cars - may be that loss of the extra 200mm height will not be a problem. Will get a bigger choice of car this way.

I'm into the habit of turning the AC and Infotainment system off, if for example I'm sitting waiting on someone. But it would be nice to listen to "some" music😄 Are we saying if I was sitting waiting on someone on a dark rainy cold night, with the heater on, radio on and lights on, but in READY mode, it wouldn't cope ?

Although I understand that the A/C is powered from the Hybrid battery I get the feeling, rightly or wrongly that the 12v battery charges up more quickly if the A/C is not on. Certainly the petrol engine cuts in less often if you keep it off. Just a gut feeling from my own experience, not science based.

Also maybe try e-mailing cr@toyota.co.uk and explain the situation - They may be able to help expedite the repair.

Hmm, something similar to this happened to someone a year or so ago with a bag strap and the boot lid - The strap had gotten jammed in the latch, preventing it from unlatching; They had to open up the boot lid from inside to get at the latch mechanism to force it open. If this is similar it's going to require a lot of precision poking to try and release the seat belt from the latch; Worst case, the webbing will need to be cut and pulled through which will require a new seat belt roll...

Hi, some folks got these issues dealt with faster and more accurate than others. I believe it’s down to the dealer wish and priority. You may want to talk to them in person especially with service manager. Don’t call them. Just visit in person and speak to them politely but firm and tell your thoughts and opinion. Your car seating for 4 months will default need a new 12v battery before collecting it and if it’s stays longer and they don’t start it once a month to let it run and recharge the hybrid battery you may end up having issues with that too. It is unacceptable to have a new or relatively new car waiting for parts at the dealer. There is no excuse for that. If me I push fast replacement or money back from the car was purchased and move on.

Managed to fix this with buying an breather adaptor from ebay, was not advertised for that specific type of battery, but it does the job ok for the moment.

I am curious as to what all the fuss is about in this part of the forum. I have just returned from a second three month stint within 12 months working abroad, leaving my car at the house. The car was driven a total of once (for 20 mins) on both occasions, and upon return the car performs as intended with no sign of the 12-V or hybrid battery underperforming. Want to know what other peoples experience are with it. I notice people being wary about leaving the car for a week or two weeks.....really? I cannot fathom why that is even a concern for the new cars. Please enlighten me.

So, I'm back with an update and thankfully it's good news. First off, thank you for your help and suggestions 👍 After a break of a few days I started to make adjustments. I ended up with the seat higher than I had it and I've finally found the right angle for my hip and knees (started low and adjusted the height in increments of 3 pumps daily until it felt right). Lowering the seat was initially comfortable but not for very long. Also I tilted the seat a little further back than I had it - only by a notch or so but it made a difference (now 110 degree angle). And lastly my arms are in a more natural position after lowering the wheel slightly. I bought two cushions (the one above and another) but thankfully they're confined to the boot in case of an issue! One driver behaviour change since I posted in case it helps anyone. When learning in the Yaris there was a physical handbrake, which was obviously used with frequency. My Corolla doesn't have one and instead has the very handy 'Hold' feature. On reflection I was riding the brake more often than I think I should have been doing and started to use 'Hold' more frequently since adjusting the seat. I think it was a contributing factor when combined with a dodgy seat setup! Thanks again Corolla community 🙂

Can't answer your exact question, but my thought on rims is smaller rim with deeper tyre = smoother ride. larger rims might look cool, but especially with today's roads give me more rubber every time! I lean more to the 15s.

Hi Thanks for the info I have just ordered a NOCO from Amazon Going of topic because I am a belt and braces guy my dealer is supplying a spare wheel and the kit to go with it I have zero confidence in the repair kits supplied with cars these days Thanks to all John

Use the Ready mode then. Taking the battery out is going to be much more complicated. Turn off AC, lights and fans and keep an eye on the car.

I did not know that if the display shows that the Hybrid Battery is at 100%, it is actually at 80%. I was afraid that overcharging the battery would accelerate its life hybrid battery.

I had a look at Toyota App and the on line connected services and the only feature I can see that would be of interest to me is the "Where is my car" which would be handy when I forget where I have parked it. I am in favour of technology used to improve fuel efficiency but all I can see in the Toyota app are gimmicks.

It's a marketing feature.

For the 24 MY Yaris Cross the advanced safety pack ( which includes the 360 degree panoramic view monitor ) is standard on Excel & Premiere versions. The advanced safety pack is an £990 optional extra for the GR Sport. Advanced Safety Pack: Front & Rear parking sensors with Intelligent Clearance Sonar and Automatic braking, Blind Spot Monitor, Safe Exit Assist, Lane Change Assist, Advanced Parking Assist, 360 Panoramic View Monitor (PVM)

I suspect very hard, the processing power to constantly record from them and stitch the images together and have them record at a decent frame rate to a recording device can be taxing on any processing unit. Showing realtime video is far less taxing as you can just pipe the feed straight to the screen.

Excellent - That's exactly the correct response from the dealer! Not keeping the car for months waiting for the part... That's why I wish Lindops had franchises down here - They were consistently top-ranking back when this forum had a dealer rating section. I think some of the dealers don't understand what the issue is and think it's unsafe to drive, but it's just a slight slip of the damper plate and I've driven mine for near 2 years after having the fault and it's not only been absolutely fine, it's also not happened again (And if anyone on this forum would be able to make it happen again, it's me )

Just had this "Hybid Malfunction, Visit Dealer" message this Saturday morning. I was less than a mile from Lindops Queensferry, so drove straight there. They read the code (Torque Damper problem) and reset it, ordered the new part under warranty, gave me a coffee whilst I waited and promised to email me when the part come in to book it in. Was in and out of there in maybe half an hour. Car is fine to drive without issues/messages. Happy chappie here. Hats off to Lindops, superb service, can't be faulted. Cheers, Trev.

I think Toyota may be a victim of their own success. Many people start their post with sentences like "I have had Toyota for xx years and none of them have ever gone wrong". Mention you have bought a Toyota and friends respond with comments like "they are bullet proof". If I bought a vw/audi , I would expect the dashboard to buzz or rattle, the cabin to suffer water ingress and to use far more fuel than claimed, just like all the ones I have owned. If I bought another Mercedes I would expect it to empty my bank account with frighteningly expensive repair bills and to be treated like a pauper by the service department for not having bought an s class. People who buy Toyotas just don't expect to have to do anything other than fill the car with fuel and get it serviced. This unrealistic expectation even applies to vehicles more than 10 years old, dubious service history and high mileage. As you point out, Toyota always appear in the top 5 of reliability surveys which is why people are so surprised when they do go wrong. The 12 volt battery issues I believe hit Toyotas most loyal customers ie older people who do little mileage and they should have provided an acceptable solution. Exceptional value for money, excellent customer service and reliability from Toyota are the starting point.

Hope all goes well and your Yaris will soon be back where it belongs.

It amazes me how many indignant owners think parts and technical problems only relate to Toyota. I won’t be buying again is the cry in some sort of declaration of punishment but the fact is, Toyota are statistically better than the others and there are woeful examples with virtually every other brand. Go on, sell it and buy something else, that’ll solve all of your problems. Before you do, join the forum of your intended salvation and have a little flick through.

Just as well, I’m not sure the modified one is Cyker proof 😉