Toyota Auris Hybrid 200 000 miles service

Well, just under 200k mark I decided to go earlier with my scheduled service instead of waiting as every next day is another big number added to the existing ones 🙃🏎🏁. 
Here it is what I have done to the car:

1. New engine oil and filter

2. New transmission fluid - drain and refill 3 litres 

3. New spark plugs - older one looked good and easy to undo them, the trick is let the engine running for 5 min before you start , in colder weather 10min is fine.

4. New air filter and Pollen filter

5. Engine coolant 5 litres- you can do that without even taking the engine under cover, you need a 9mm ID clear tube 30cm long and an empty container, perhaps a gallon from the same stuff. , again drain and refill. Before you start set heating to max temperature and blower speed 1, and after refill set the car into maintenance mode it takes around 20-30min running and the engine coolant needs to reach 95C° and thermostat to open and both radiator fans to kick in and spin. Add coolant as necessary. 
6. Inverter coolant drain ad refill, around 2 litres of coolant , again after you fill up full turn on the car and immediately turn off, go to the engine bay and top up to max. Repeat this process 3 times, set the level just above max. 
7. Fit engine undercover after all checked for fluids leaks. Use new plastic clips where old one are broken, also best to replace front M6 bolts with stainless steel ones, I did that many years ago. 👌

Well that’s pretty much all. I hope for another few 000 trouble free miles🏎🏁👍

I can give torque settings, and from where  to start first if anyone interested of diy car service. 

Looking at that little gear stick makes me miss mine. I only had it a month before it went back to the garage and I’ve still got the courtesy car over 2 months later 😆😆

1 hour ago, Steven83 said:

Looking at that little gear stick makes me miss mine. I only had it a month before it went back to the garage and I’ve still got the courtesy car over 2 months later 😆😆

I know , that little thing is the most comfortable joystick I ever used, I had tried cars with buttons like some  evs has , or like Corolla more standard gear lever but non of them is as good as the Prius style one 👌✅

+1 to that.  If you going to have something special like an e-cvt give it a special and very functional look.

That's a lucky car to have such a fastidious owner 😇. Are there any other parts you've changed over time? And how often have you done brake fluid?

5 hours ago, Saxmaniac said:

That's a lucky car to have such a fastidious owner 😇. Are there any other parts you've changed over time? And how often have you done brake fluid?

Hahah , it is lucky indeed to have me but not so lucky to travel excess of 200 miles a day 🤣, I think she deserves some attention. 
To date only servicing and regular maintenance (cleaning), the only parts that ever been replaced are all 4 wheels bearings and all 4 brake discs and pads because the car wasn’t used properly and these had a lots of rust on them, catalytic converter plate installed, hybrid badges removed and a second set of alloy wheels and tyres for the summer season. Once egr cleaned and Battery fan cleaned, that’s all., and all Toyota recalls completed. Brake fluid a couple of times through the years, every 3-4 years. 👍

On 3/2/2022 at 6:39 ΜΜ, TonyHSD said:

Λοιπόν, λίγο λιγότερο από 200 χιλιάδες αποφάσισα να πάω νωρίτερα με την προγραμματισμένη υπηρεσία μου αντί να περιμένω καθώς κάθε επόμενη μέρα προστίθεται ένας ακόμη μεγάλος αριθμός στα υπάρχοντα 🙃 🏎 🏁 . 
Εδώ είναι τι έχω κάνει στο αυτοκίνητο:

1. Καινούργιο λάδι κινητήρα και φίλτρο

2. Νέο υγρό κιβωτίου ταχυτήτων - στραγγίστε και ξαναγεμίστε 3 λίτρα 

3. Νέα μπουζί - το παλαιότερο φαινόταν καλό και εύκολο να τα λύσετε, το κόλπο είναι να αφήσετε τον κινητήρα να λειτουργεί για 5 λεπτά πριν ξεκινήσετε, σε πιο κρύο καιρό 10 λεπτά είναι μια χαρά.

4. Νέο φίλτρο αέρα και φίλτρο γύρης

5. Ψυκτικό κινητήρα 5 λίτρα- μπορείτε να το κάνετε αυτό χωρίς καν να καλύψετε τον κινητήρα, χρειάζεστε έναν διαφανή σωλήνα ID 9 mm μήκους 30 cm και ένα άδειο δοχείο, ίσως ένα γαλόνι από το ίδιο πράγμα. , πάλι στραγγίζουμε και ξαναγεμίζουμε. Πριν ξεκινήσετε, ρυθμίστε τη θέρμανση στη μέγιστη θερμοκρασία και ταχύτητα ανεμιστήρα 1, και μετά την επαναπλήρωση ρυθμίστε το αυτοκίνητο σε λειτουργία συντήρησης, χρειάζονται περίπου 20-30 λεπτά λειτουργίας και το ψυκτικό του κινητήρα πρέπει να φτάσει τους 95 C° και ο θερμοστάτης να ανοίξει και να μπουν και οι δύο ανεμιστήρες ψυγείου και γνέθω. Προσθέστε ψυκτικό όσο χρειάζεται. 
6. Αναπλήρωση αποστράγγισης ψυκτικού μετατροπέα, περίπου 2 λίτρα ψυκτικού υγρού, και πάλι αφού γεμίσετε πλήρως, ενεργοποιήστε το αυτοκίνητο και σβήσετε αμέσως, πηγαίνετε στο χώρο του κινητήρα και συμπληρώστε το μέγιστο. Επαναλάβετε αυτή τη διαδικασία 3 φορές, ρυθμίστε το επίπεδο ακριβώς πάνω από το μέγιστο. 
7. Τοποθετήστε τον κινητήρα κάτω από το κάλυμμα αφού ελέγξετε για διαρροές υγρών. Χρησιμοποιήστε νέα πλαστικά κλιπ όπου το παλιό είναι σπασμένο, επίσης καλύτερα να αντικαταστήσετε τα μπροστινά μπουλόνια M6 με αυτά από ανοξείδωτο χάλυβα, το έκανα πριν από πολλά χρόνια. 👌

Λοιπόν, αυτό είναι λίγο πολύ όλο. Ελπίζω για άλλα 000 μίλια χωρίς προβλήματα🏎 🏁 👍

Μπορώ να δώσω ρυθμίσεις ροπής και από πού να ξεκινήσω πρώτα αν κάποιος ενδιαφέρεται για diy car service. 

Good Evening Does your oil burn after the kilometers you lift? Thanks

54 minutes ago, xrhstosgr said:

Good Evening Does your oil burn after the kilometers you lift? Thanks

Hi, 

yes it does burn a bit but nothing too excessive, 0.6-0.9 ltr per 10000 miles.  

Thanks for updating. You don't need to do 3x transmission fluid change because you change  100% of the fluid in hybrid. It has no torque converter.  It is purely like differential, just a wet sump. 

It is better to spend on more often engine oil change interval to slow down the oil burning.  It is most likely sticking piston rings that eventually getting worse if we do 10k miles interval.  6k miles/6 months interval will slowly clean the rings.  

I don't want to add harsh solvent like engine flush product that can cause broken rubber seals and cause oil leaks. It also reduce oil film strength and increase wear. It may be necessary if it consume 1L per 2000 miles or sludge problems. 

1 hour ago, AisinW said:

Thanks for updating. You don't need to do 3x transmission fluid change because you change  100% of the fluid in hybrid. It has no torque converter.  It is purely like differential, just a wet sump. 

It is better to spend on more often engine oil change interval to slow down the oil burning.  It is most likely sticking piston rings that eventually getting worse if we do 10k miles interval.  6k miles/6 months interval will slowly clean the rings.  

I don't want to add harsh solvent like engine flush product that can cause broken rubber seals and cause oil leaks. It also reduce oil film strength and increase wear. It may be necessary if it consume 1L per 2000 miles or sludge problems. 

Thanks for sharing some tips 👍. I do oil changes at 10k miles as per the manufacturer recommendations and change the oil 4-5 times a year , every 2-3 months, 10k intervals are just fine in the UK climate and the oil although look a bit dark in the pan actually is quite clean, same for the transmission fluid and coolant, but that’s what I am after, otherwise if they are dirty means has been a bit too late for change. 👌 My engine hasn’t burnt any oil until around 130k miles, I don’t think I have piston rings problems as oil is always fresh in and never stays longer then 3 months. I look through oil filler cap and what I see look really nice and clean like in a new car engine. I also do get the engine up to 3500-4000 rpm and up on regular basis therefore I am not worried about the rings , but with the time and mileage it’s normal to get some engine wear and oil consumption, I can easily not top up between changes and it will be from max down to just above the minimum mark on the dipstick but I prefer to have always to the max for cooling purposes, as oil does take heat away from the engine and cools off in the pan, more oil = extra cooling 😉

Thank you for your comments. 👌✅

You don't do short trips and cold starts often. 1L in 10k miles is really good for 200k miles. 

The only thing I don't follow European schedule is brake fluid flush and sparkplugs. I followed Denso and my brake fluid tester.  But I change oil 2x more often once I passed 100k miles because i only drive 10 k miles a year and often only drive 3 miles commutes

Hi Tony ,

This is very informative reading and I am pleased your car has been good for you . It must be paying you back for the care you have put in.

I am interested to hear how things have been reliability and cost wise with the hybrid Battery and associated components.

I have an Auris 1.6 MMT , it has done 153K with great history and is a  good all rounder. Whilst not bad on file at around 38 ish I am doing a fair mileage in it and I am aware the hybrid can do better.

thanks

12 minutes ago, redrobbo said:

Hi Tony ,

This is very informative reading and I am pleased your car has been good for you . It must be paying you back for the care you have put in.

I am interested to hear how things have been reliability and cost wise with the hybrid battery and associated components.

I have an Auris 1.6 MMT , it has done 153K with great history and is a  good all rounder. Whilst not bad on file at around 38 ish I am doing a fair mileage in it and I am aware the hybrid can do better.

 

thanks

 

 

 

  

Hi and thank you for your comment. You have a good high mileage on your car too, I think all cars with carful drive and taken care off can go high miles. I am touching the wood I never had any serious issues to date with my one with only two minor incidents, failed speed sensor on rear wheel, and once hybrid system malfunction, all happened within 5 weeks but both times the car was drivable and I managed to get to my destination. New bearing sorted the first issue and for the second one, perhaps was a softer glitch or something else but after codes been reset never happened again, so far so good. For the hybrid Battery, it requires very simple maintenance, cleaning cooling fan grill, air ducts and the fan itself, and the newer models only require a filter change sometimes, that’s it. My car is still on its original batteries after  11years and 200k miles traveled. I have no idea how much will it cost a new hybrid Battery from Toyota perhaps a couple of grand(£3-5k ) and the small one is around £150. 👍

HV Battery is not that expensive compared to  DPF filter in Diesel. For Auris 2, parts alone is €2000 complete new unit, installed €2350 in Toyota dealership.  In UK is probably even cheaper.  Hybrid can do better than any non hybrid in motorway, and in city, it could be 2x more effecient especially with AC on and traffict jam. If you drive 10k miles per year, you save about €400 if 50-50 city-highway compared to non hybrid with the same HP. In 15 years, €6000 fuel saving is enough to cover a new Battery. Yet, the resale value is also much higher with hybrid.   In short, hybrid is cheaper to own and buy if we considered repair and resale value than non hybrid Toyota. 

On 2/5/2022 at 9:10 PM, AisinW said:

Thanks for updating. You don't need to do 3x transmission fluid change because you change  100% of the fluid in hybrid. It has no torque converter.  It is purely like differential, just a wet sump. 

 

I was having the same thoughts, so I read the post a second time. 3 litres, not 3x 😊 Brain finished reading before the eyes 😆

1 hour ago, Red_Corolla said:

I was having the same thoughts, so I read the post a second time. 3 litres, not 3x 😊 Brain finished reading before the eyes 😆

3 litres indeed 😉👍

PS fair play to you for getting all that done on the roadside at this time of year. My car would have gotten an oil change and the rest deferred until spring 😇

15 hours ago, redrobbo said:

Hi Tony ,

This is very informative reading and I am pleased your car has been good for you . It must be paying you back for the care you have put in.

I am interested to hear how things have been reliability and cost wise with the hybrid battery and associated components.

I have an Auris 1.6 MMT , it has done 153K with great history and is a  good all rounder. Whilst not bad on file at around 38 ish I am doing a fair mileage in it and I am aware the hybrid can do better.

 

thanks

 

 

 

  

Have you ever change the clutch yet in your MMT transmission?   At one point I was looking for Automatic older Auris or Yaris but I realised it is similar to DSG or but with 1 clutch.  When I was checking one of the car, the dealership said it needs new clutch for  800 euros. It was only about 120k Km or 70k miles. It also depends how we drive and use the car.  

12 hours ago, Red_Corolla said:

PS fair play to you for getting all that done on the roadside at this time of year. My car would have gotten an oil change and the rest deferred until spring 😇

I was thinking the same as all that service was just done back in 2020 therefore easily can wait few more months, but the weather was mild and I said why not now, I left the egr system to be check and clean in spring time, older cars are like the older houses, there are always things to work on 🙂

For 3rd gen 1.8L, there are things considered to be necessary maintenance although not in the manual:

1. ATF WS fluid 3.2L change every 60-90k miles

2. Clean Intake manifolds and EGR passages every 150k miles. It includes the pipe and blow the EGR cooler and replace PCV valve.

3. Clean brake pads and sliding pins and lube all sliding parts with silicon grease every 60k miles. 

4. Check rear stabilizer links rubber  parts, often they already badly deformed every 60k miles if we live on winding roads. 

Hi all, 

done my 210k service yesterday. Nothings fancy,  just an oil, filter and pollen filter change plus suspension check and undercarriage. All seems very good shape.
Something with the oil that I like to share: 
Since my last change in February I had been using only E10 95, and about around 8500-9000 miles after that the engine started to produce a valve train noise like there is no oil there, all dried. This perhaps can happen when the car been seated for a week or more and it’s normal imo, however now this was after only 1 or 2 days without use. Only happened on the first cold start for 1 second and nothing after. Could it be because the oil has been contaminated with fuel more as a result of been using only E10, or perhaps because I was keeping it in excessive idle during the colder nights ?! We will see in the next 3 months as I am not keeping it ON anymore but continue to use E10 95 as there is no E5 99 available near me on good price. 
Btw I had received new batch Petronas Syntium 0w20 which is spec to the latest oil standard ILSAC -GF6A, API- SP 👍 Pictures below and comparison with previous package. 

On 5/10/2022 at 1:09 PM, TonyHSD said:

I had been using only E10

Tony - I was thinking of putting a query on here about E10 and if it would have any detrimental effects.  But then I read that Brazil uses E80 (80% ethanol) and Toyota sell cars to Brazil.....  But, ethanol is a solvent!  I'll be very interested in your conclusion in 3 months time.

33 minutes ago, Wooster said:

Tony - I was thinking of putting a query on here about E10 and if it would have any detrimental effects.  But then I read that Brazil uses E80 (80% ethanol) and Toyota sell cars to Brazil.....  But, ethanol is a solvent!  I'll be very interested in your conclusion in 3 months time.

Yes, that’s right.  Brazil have E85 and many of their cars are made to work on this type of fuel. Since the oil change I have no any more strange engine noises. Perhaps my issue has been as a result of excessive idle, I know hybrids does not idle unless you keep it ON for hours in the cold , exactly what I was doing 🫢. Reading others posts I can see more people notice that when driving on E10 vs E5 the engine sounds louder and has slightly less power, even people with recent 2020 -> hybrids., definitely E5 is the better fuel. I only use E10 because I can’t source E5 on good prices, local Tesco is under construction and at other places is crazy high price 😢👍

I do wonder what they change to make normal engines into E85/flexfuel versions nowadays. The basics would be greater amounts of timing advance and a more powerful fuel pump, but I would imagine most of the seals and pipes would already be flex-fuel capable since all fuel has ethanol in it now and anything not immune to alcohol degradation would rot...

I wonder how the brazillians deal with the water absorption too...!

21 minutes ago, Cyker said:

I do wonder what they change to make normal engines into E85/flexfuel versions nowadays. The basics would be greater amounts of timing advance and a more powerful fuel pump, but I would imagine most of the seals and pipes would already be flex-fuel capable since all fuel has ethanol in it now and anything not immune to alcohol degradation would rot...

I wonder how the brazillians deal with the water absorption too...!

Brazil is hot, no water absorption, it’s only alcohol absorption at the beach 🏖 🍹and in the tank of the car ⛽️😀👌