My Corolla Hybrid 2l sport  today started sounding the alarm while standing on my drive.

I managed to get to the car pretty quick but could not see any attempts at theft or cat disconnection.

Now i know that this car has no tilt sensor etc so i am puzzled why the alarm went off. I addition there were no signs of forced entry through 

the doors and all windows were intact. I was wondering what physical action would trigger the alarm.

I got this car few months ago. It's 11/2021, 1st maintenace was 11/2022. Oil is like new. The 1st issue is that since I got this car, I heard 3 times VVT intake camshaft variator rattling on 1st engine start...usually in the morning. I know this issue from Renault, so I exactly know what's the issue and so on. But my question is (engine 2ZR 1.8) - is this common issue on these engines? I'm asking because for example Renault makes 3 genrrations of variator till they used proper material which lasts long (8 years) without rattling...I don't know this 2ZR engines well...it's history, issues and so on...

And 2nd issue - when I stop (I mean full stop) the car on traffic lights, front brakes squeeks for very short period of time...and the same squeak when I release brake pedal...it's like MG2 is "fighting" with it's power against power of brake pads...is this very short squeaking normal on these hybrids? I didn't hear sqieaking like this on POV videos and nobody complained it in test reviews...

Thank you very much for any info!

Rado

My Excel has them looking like a flash near the headlight. I’ve never noticed this difference before, is it trim level dependant?

Apparently the remote start function can go wrong and you end up with the hazard lights flashing for 20 minutes and you can't turn them off.

'Recall' is a bit weird, it will be done over the air... but it won't tell you when it's being done or afterwards, so you just have to assume that it has been at some point.

The mode button on the rhs of the steering wheel allows me to switch between drcc, standard cruise control (non-adaptive) and speed limiter.   I find that, mostly, I prefer the standard, non-adaptive, cruise control and would like this to remain set when the car is switched off.   Annoyingly, the car defaults back to drcc when I re-start.   

OK, it's not a big deal, just requires 2 presses of the mode button to sort (to add to the list...).   However, I have been looking for a setting to change so that the mode stays 'as is' when the car is switched off and back on.   I have failed to find such a setting ☹️.    Anyone any ideas please?

I would have thought there would be something by now, whether big or small that Toyota keep on top of it.

What’s other people’s experience?

I’ve just bought 12 month old GR sport every time  I start the car I have to agree or disagree T&C on the screen.

is this normal ?

Thanks

Car is great with one exception.

The radio reception is really poor on both dab and FM when driving.  Applies to all radio stations, cuts out at least every minute. Seems to work better when in London, but in Essex and Suffolk really poor. Screen shows signal lost message. My old lexus ct200h was fine.

On a trip to Devon, same thing. Ok in Exeter but when 5 miles outside of city radio reception cutting out. 

Radio reception also gets interrupted if you open the door or touch the aerial.

London dealer who supplied it tested whilst stationary and couldn't find anything wrong or any fault codes. They couldn't find any updates or reports from Toyota so weren't prepared to do anything under warranty.

Toyota uk refer me back to the dealer.... So I'm stuck 

Car is standard, I don't have a camera fitted. 

Not good on a brand new car in 2023.

Is anyone else having a problem ?

Please correct me if i am wrong here or starting ‘another rattle’ topic.

I am from The Netherlands and this Corolla is driving me insane from a simple rattle.

Dutch forums are not helping me much.

The car has the steering wheel on the left side, and the rattle is on the far right.. coming from the speaker just below the window.

I removed the whole front dash, no succes.

Then i removed the right A-pillar trim, along with the ‘grill’ for the speaker and also disconnected the speaker.

Sound was more noticable but everything we touch while it’s rattling makes no difference.

So i guess it is somewhere just outside the firewall?

Does anyone have this same experience?

To solve this problem RRG AT ROCHDALE, LANCASHIRE have supplied me with a SOLAR PANEL which I have to plug in every day when the car is parked at night.

Surely a new car which I bought in April 2022 should not have a fault like this.

Been lurking around a little while and picked up some great info and tips, thanks.

Have the car now and it's supposedly got "Connected Car Functionality Upgrade, Tracker, Remote Status And E-Care" which I've assumed would show in the Toyota app, but all I have is cards for hybrid coaching, warning lights and servicing but nothing for remote control or track. 

Have registered it to the car on app but can't do it on the portal until the V5 arrives, could this be problem please?

Also car doesn't unlock when I walk up to it and have to use unlock button, but it's enabled in settings and don't have to touch key to start button.

Have searched but couldn't find what I'm missing, or is it just a restriction on a 2021.

Thanks

I've just joined the club to get advice from folk who I assume are as potty about their Toyotas as I am?  So might understand the query ...

I have a Corolla VVT-I 1.4L manual, registered in 2000, mine for the last 17 years.  I love this car!  No mod-cons, wind-up windows, central locking that isn't remote, radio no longer works ... We have travelled over 250,000 miles together to all parts of the UK and she is as ancient and creaky as me 😉 But totally reliable until ...

Since September things have been going wrong and various garages have meddled with air/fuel sensors, new batteries and all sorts to sort out the problem of losing power going up hill, dodgy starting and occasional 'bunny hopping' on the motorway.  I was advised to get her de-coked - which I did - and most recently she had a new started motor fitted (was about to board a ferry from Skye to Harris ....!!!).  I've now been told that the core of the problem is the unit that controls everything.  Sorry - this isn't helpful but I've forgotten the name the mechanic told me but it's got a three-letter acronym and when I suggested to his that "basically my car needs a brain transplant", he laughed but said that was exactly that.

So - I've been slowly saying good-bye and looking for a new corolla but the new ones just aren't the same (and the boot space is much smaller!).  I am wondering whether or not this is actually the end?  The Man said that

• A replacement - if it could be found - would cost thousands (well - a 4-figure sum anyhow)
• Would then need fitting AND programming
• The car wasn't worth it

Question is - is this true?  (Not the bit about the value - I'm aware that to the outside eye she's worth borderline nothing - but replacement value ..... )  Same guy said I should E-Bay it for spares / parts, saying it had throttle unit issues so I couldn't be 'done' for selling a pup.  He also said that it would probably be bought for export ... So if it's good for export ...

Thoughts / advice / information gratefully received.

Does anyone know how to increase the sensitivity of the microphones?

Again Thanks in advance

Looking to replace the USB port I took apart the dash trim where it is fitted to check for part numbers etc. I noticed when taking the trim off that apart from the single USB/Aux socket on the passenger side, there is a second cable that is attached to the plastic trim on the drivers side but not connected to anything. This cable looks like a square grey plastic block with four ports, which I understand from the internet is a Toyota USB port connection. The existing USB port uses a different connection. See images below of the two different connections. 
 

I’m wondering if anyone knows if i can connect a second USB port to this grey four port block and use that to attach a Carlink wireless carplay box and leave the existing port unused. This would allow me to use wireless carplay for this port and leave the other port for infrequently connecting devices. Anybody have any information on this? 

rear of existing USB/Aux port:

spare unused cable: 

Never any problems but I hear some say they have the gearbox issue you would Imagine as time goes on they would be making cars better. 

I am curious to know people experiences the engines are brilliant but are the gearboxes a let down ?

Nothing has been broken.

Front discs has just been replaced. 1 set of wipers, 1 set of summer/ winter tyres. Upgrade to Android Auto.

That's it. Nothing else. All services has been done by the same dealer. It has been trouble free and cheap driving. 

Reason is , when I'm playing an album off Spotify via bluetooth it says on the screen ' track 1 ' but it stays on track 1 even if I'm on track 5 ! Thanks 

I'm a new Toyota owner here and have recently got a new 2023 Toyota Corolla 1.8 hybrid excel.

Ever since i bought the car, around 6 months ago, I've noticed that the air conditioning always seem to switch on automatically every time i switch the car on with the green light switched on (first photo).  Even when I switch it off with the green light off, the white symbol is still showing (second photo) and I can still feel gentle hot air blowing through the air conditioning vents. I can't seem to find anyway to switch this off completely so no symbol is showing and no air is coming out through the vents.

In the winter months it isn't too much of an issue but just thinking ahead to the summer as the weather starts warming up it will unnecessarily warm up the cabin of the car and also may be hampering my fuel economy.

I wanted to ask is this normal?

Or is this some sort of software glitch or problem with my car?

Thanks in advance!