Starting Problems On Avensis? Solution.

I finally got the part and fitted it thanks to your excellent guide Rvall!

It seems to be working fine now, though the weather has been cooler. I want it to get scorching hot just to make sure it has got the problem.! After comparing the two switches side by side you can definitely see massive wear on the inner rectangle.

I haven't had any low power issues since that one particular day either so fingers crossed the replacement switch has cracked my problem.

This is a short workshop for changing the ignition switch on an Avensis 2.0 1999.

I've had problems with starting the engine since beginning of summer. The symptoms were like this;

when turning the key to the START position, nothing happens. You have to, either turn it from ON to START a few times or wiggle the key while holding it in the START position, to get connection in the lock to start the motor. :ffs:

This is due to a faulty switch behind the locking barrel, that has been worn down so it does not alway connect. This has nothing to do with the imobilizer system or coding of keys, it is only a mechanical problem and will not be solved by re-coding the keys or such.

Be ware, the dealer gave me the wrong part on my first order;

I described the symptoms and where the part is located and they knew exactly what I needed, after a long search in their computer they came up with the part I nedded. It was not in stock so they ordered it.

What I got was a part called something like Coding Unit/Computer Unit remote control (PN 89780-05011).

It's a part in black plastic casing with the front ring around the keyhole (with the text ACC/ON/START) and a short cable with a connector. This is the receiver of the coded keys and it is the wrong part, also it's more expensive and doesn't solve this problem.

When I called them on the phone and described the symptoms again and told them I've got the wrong part, they looked again and came back to me saying that it was the correct part I've got.

After a little convincing that I had a mechanical problem and not a computer problem, he discussed with another guy and finally they found the correct part.

I've had a lot of help from member GnzYza in 'Problems with starting', where you can read how it all started.

Once again, thank GnzYza. :D

1. First you need to get the new part from a Toyota dealer.

The part you need is the SWITCH ASSY, partnumber 84450-02010 (at least for my Avensis -99, but it gives you something to start with at Toyota).

2. Disassembling.

You'll need a cross/pozidrive screwdrive of medium size, that's all you need.

(It might come in handy with some kind of light because it's rather dark behind the dashboard)

First remove the dash casing below the steering wheel, there are 2 black screws, one to the left...

...and one to the right and also the golden screw under the cowling.

Turn the steering wheel so you'll see the last 2 screws behing the wheel...

to the left...

...and to the right.

3. Carefully pull the dash casing a bit outwards in the bottom and slide it down to remove it. There are 3 things stuck to this part; the wire for the front hood, an airtube and a wire with connector on it. These can remain in place, just put the casing on the floor.

4. Separate the top and bottom parts of the cowling, there are only small plastic lockers holding them together now, so a little bending with a screwdriver in the joint between them would do it. The joint is on both the left and the right side, you'll see it clearly if you look close.

The top one could needs not to be removed, but the bottom one does. It might be easier if you loosen the locking handle for adjusting the height of the stearing wheel.

5. Now you should have access to everything under the cowling. Don't be alarmed, it is not so much you have to care about, it is just very much cabling in a very tight space.

Locate the rear of the ignition barrel, where you'll find following parts attached to it:

A and B are just connectors placed on the Switch Assy, remove them, but don't disconnect them.

C is the connector on the Switch Assy. Disconnect it and fold it away.

D is the actual Switch Assy. The arrow points to one of the two screws that holds it in place. (The easy one...)

6. Change the Switch Assy

Remove the two screws that holds the Switch Assy to the rear of the barrel. One is easy to get at, but the other one is rather tricky to access.

The screws might fall off so don't loose them!

Once they are removed, pull the case of the Switch Assy away from the barrel. You can't pull it off all the way, so you'll have to turn it 45 degrees and try to get it out sideways. There are no loose parts there so you are rather free to remove it any way you can. Just keep in mind how you did it since you have to get the new part in, the same way.

7. Assembling.

Place the screw that was hard to get at, in it's hole on the new Switch Assy before placing it in position. It is very hard to get it in place through all cables.

Now, just tighten the screws for the Switch Assy, re-connect the cable (is only one way), fit the two connectors you removed in the beginning, and you're finshed with the hard part.

Fit the bottom part of the cowling again, remember to have all plastic notches in their place. The parts will lock together nicely, fit the 2 screws behind the steering wheel again and also the bottom one.

Place the dash casing in it's place; top first them push in the bottom. Screw it tight in place.

8. Finished.

This is not a hard work and it took me around 25 minutes (including taking the photos). After that my car has started without a problem.

The Switch Assy costed 900 SEK (> £60) but the garage told me they would charge me around 4500 SEK (>£300) to do the change. I don't know how they'd charge me so much for this easy job and now that I know how easy it was, I'd never accept a bill from them with that amount.

I hope this workshop will help somebody in the future, if so, please post you comments on it.

Good luck. :)

From Metman

Many, many thanks Rvall. You are a life-saver. It was very thoughtful of you to post this workshop in changing the switch assembly on the Avensis. Mine is a 1998 1.8 GS model and the starting problems had been driving me mad for a few weeks. Expert help seemed to be in short supply. Many mechanics were reluctant to get involved in tracing an obscure fault without giving them an open-ended aggreement to change lots of components. I was unwilling to commit to a very large bill. Mention was made of changing starter motor and solenoid etc. Finding your comprehensive guide was like manna from heaven. Getting the part was little trouble and fitting it was fairly straightforward using your guide. It does require a bit of manual dexterity but it was all worth it!

Once again many, many thanks!

***SAVE YORSELF £60***

I have just repaired one of these switches from a 126k 99 GS. Once removed from the car as described in previous threads, it is possible to separate the white bit from the black bit. Do this carefully with a small flat blade screwdriver so as not to lose any of the internal bits,best to do this somewhere clean. dont worry if some bits fall out into your hand as its easy to see how the bits fit.When the two bits are apart, you will see the brass contacts on the black peice, these are fixed, and on the white peice the spring loaded silver contacts, which can be removed. I found that the brass contacts were covered in grease and had turned black.( Interesting to note that people were having trouble starting in hot weather, it would suggest that the grease, over time, breaks down and then melts and covers the contacts causing the problem) Using a small flat blade screwdriver,scrape all of the brass contacts to remove any tarnish and try to get these as clean as you can without damaging them. Check the contact nodes on the silver contacts for tarnishing and clean if neccesary, now give all the bits a quick wipe to remove any excess grease. Re-assemble the contacts and then snap the two bits back together.

MOMENT OF TRUTH!!

Back to the car, refit the electrics back to the switch, but don't fit back to the ignition lock just yet.With a suitable sized flat blade screwdriver, you can test the switch by inserting it into the slot on the white peice, turn clockwise to position 1 then position 2 (make sure you have handbrake on and in neutral) then ignition.If your car starts, then you have cracked it, if not, then maybe it is time for a new switch as they do wear out, although mine looked in really good nick apart from the grease. If all is ok, then you can re-install the switch as to previous posts in this thread.

Hope this helps.

Thank you very much... it saves my time and money..

Works perfectly.... Thank you very much for spending time to create a detail steps which helps lots of other people...

Just thought I would post to thank you all for this great forum. I took my switch off tonight as I have had the problem gradually getting worse over tthe last 2 years on my 60K 99 Avensis. It just started again now it is warming up.

After opening the switch, the copper contacts were covered in thick black grease. I cleaned it off and used wet/dry sandpaper to polish them up then refitted the switch.

Thanks to Rvall for the removal info and 87budgie for repair tip as without you I would probably never have known where to look.

Only bit I would add is a reminder when testing the switch with a screwdriver after reassembly is to put the key in ignition to deactivate the imobiliser. The engine turns over but will not start. This also confirms that the described fault is the switch and not the transponder otherwise the engine would crank but fail to start.

Just thought I would post again as my switch stopped working completely the next day. I have come to the conclusion that it is the plastic part of my switch that the small square shaft fits into that is worn. The switch works fine when turned with a screwdriver so it is not a contact problem in my case.

I decided to hotwire the starter position to a small push to start switch and thought I would post details incase anyone else wants to do this.

A cheap switch is all that I used because I measured the switching current to the starter relay as less than 200mA. FH59P from Maplin would probably be ideal, as I used a very similar switch and mounted it on the lower half of the steering column covering so it is just beneath the key hole. I left enough spare wire to place the covering on the floor if removed. I wired the NO contacts on the switch to the IG2 and ST2 terminals on the existing ignition switch. This ensures that it only works when the ignition key is in the on position.

Hope this helps those who have a worn out switch and don't want to spend £60.

Thank you for your step by step direction on how to fix the switch assy. I managed to follow the steps and was able to fit the switch. My toyota is able to start without clicking problems

Thanks to Rvall for his excellent workshop and to the other contributors to this thread. I'd really appreciate some input on my case, because I'm still puzzled by my experiences with this problem

My intermittent starting problem began about 6 or seven weeks ago. It first happened when the car was parked for several hours in the spring sunshine on a friend's south-facing drive. When I went to start it - nothing;even though the Battery was in good condition etc etc., perhaps just the faintest whine (from the solenoid?). It started at the second or third attempt and I just put the incident down to gremlins...Needless to say the problem surfaced more regularly over the next few months, usually when I least expected it or was in a hurry. I've only had the car since November last year and so hadn't previously figured out the connection between hot/hotter weather and this starting problem, but there IS a connection.

I paid £59.19 for a new ignition switch from my local Toyota dealer (the Part Reference is T84450-02010) and using Rvall's guide, I installed it without any problems - apart from replacing that cursed upper screw which fastens the switch to the locking barrel!

Having installed the new switch onto the barrel, I tested it with the key and - bingo - it started first time....10 minutes later when I had reassembled the dash and cowling, and tried to start the car, I had the old problem all over again!! Aaaarrgh! :ffs:

My immediate thought was '!Removed! starter motor!'. As I was parked on a slight slope, I put the car in gear with the ignition off, kept my foot on the clutch and then released the handbrake. As the car was rolling slowly forward I released the clutch sharply to stop it. I then engaged the handbrake, depressed the clutch and tried the key - and it started first time... I ran the engine on tickover for about 5 minutes and tried just the key this time, and nothing, nada, zilch! So I left it until the next morning, and of course after a cool night in the open it started first time......and it started first time after completing the 40 mile drive to find a replacement starter motor at a breaker's yard.

After all this excitement I had to lie down in a darkened room so I've not fitted the starter motor yet.. But before I do, I was wondering:

1. Could there also be a mechanical problem (wear and tear) within the locking barrel that somehow prevents the rectangular shaft engaging properly with the slot on the ignition switch? If so, the new switch may not work every time. I noticed that the plastic of the slot on the old switch was worn, and no longer cleanly rectangular. Maybe this was the result of the shaft not engaging fully and then slipping when the key was turned....or just maybe wear and tear after 5 previous owners since 1998!?

2. Could my 'slope-start' have released a sticking starter motor??

I'm inclined to fit the replacement starter, but before I do any suggestions would be appreciated!

Cheers

BBK

Hey Rvall,

My wife's Avensis died on her last week after a short but painful period of "wiggle-the-key-to-get-started-syndrome". The RAC man who came to her rescue offered me the services of his pal, a car locksmith, and a mechanic pal said that I should get a new lock barrel. Both were going to cost me a packet and I wasn't sure, (and nor where they) if their diagnosis was actually the cause of the problem. In a somewhat depressed state I went on-line and Googled the problem. Low and behold your workshop popped up. I read your instructions and the comments others had written about their success having followed your workshop. I then sent away for a part from a Scrappy (£28). This is a big deal for me as I'm the sort of bloke that finds anything technical a complete nightmare. I can't even work the video without help.

I told my sceptical wife I was going to attempt the job myself and got one of those withering looks that women are so good at. "Yeah right!" was her less than supportive reply.

At 5pm tonight I started the job. At 5.55 the wife came out just I was about to turn the key having completed the job. The car started first time!!!! Her face had an expression of one of disbelief, as was mine.

Your instructions were spot on. Cheers! The job satisfaction I got was great. The wife can't get over it given my previous history of technical inadequacy.

Anybody out there thinking about doing the job themselves should give it a go. Trust me, if I can do it you can.

Thanks again Rvall. Top man!

Westy123

Thanks to Rvall, it realy looks quite nice workshop, as i have toyota corolla 1.4, hatch back, vvt-i take a look here ( http://kvd.se/objekt/objekt_all_info.php?objektnr=417299 ), and i think its also having the same problem, i opened it today, its a little bit different than the described procedure, and nuts are somewhat different positioned, but not that hard, but now i'm wondering that will the part is same as described here for my car too ? as it looks same visually when i looked it in car....but i don know about minor details could it be different ??? any idea ??? and on eBay its quite cheap like 32USD so is it the same piece? or ??? any idea?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/00-01-02-03...p4506.m20.l1116

yesterday i bought the item from Toyota center göteborg, and in the evening i replaced it. The only thing which distubred me was to open the second screw (the hard one), there was no way i can directly approach that, anyhow......i did that very slowly with tilted screw driver, and finaly i did the replacement and it realy worked.... :D

the old one was almost broken from one end inside and it had grease in it, that's why it was causing me so trouble....but now ...just one click...and... :D

....thanks to this forum...

Just thought I would post again as my switch stopped working completely the next day. I have come to the conclusion that it is the plastic part of my switch that the small square shaft fits into that is worn. The switch works fine when turned with a screwdriver so it is not a contact problem in my case.

I decided to hotwire the starter position to a small push to start switch and thought I would post details incase anyone else wants to do this.

A cheap switch is all that I used because I measured the switching current to the starter relay as less than 200mA. FH59P from Maplin would probably be ideal, as I used a very similar switch and mounted it on the lower half of the steering column covering so it is just beneath the key hole. I left enough spare wire to place the covering on the floor if removed. I wired the NO contacts on the switch to the IG2 and ST2 terminals on the existing ignition switch. This ensures that it only works when the ignition key is in the on position.

Hope this helps those who have a worn out switch and don't want to spend £60.

Immense help - thanks Toyote

Just finished wiring a cheap switch from Maplins to the IG2 and ST2 terminals as you said. The switch was FF98G and cost the princely sum of £1.89.

The hardest part was drilling the hole to mount it.

After weeks of frustrating wiggling of the ignition key every time I want to start the car, my car now starts at the push of a button. Bliss .

Hello,

first post so apologies if format not correct.

Excellent guide for replacing the ignition switch.

BUT, I have created a couple of problems so that the car now doesn't start.

First, when rotating the switch, there were a few sparks (around the back by the steering frame) and the old switch disintegrated.

Secondly, the small connector ("A" in the tutorial) became disconnected.

Now the car doesn't start but the centre stack clicks (relay issue??) but no crank.

Could this be immobiliser issue and/or relay issue?

Any feedback appreciated.

SORRY ALL. JUST FOUND I HAD BLOWN THE MAIN IGNITION FUSE UNDER THE BONNET - ALL OKAY AND WORKING GREAT!

Hi All friends,

Please see link below to a ppt presention on how fixing the ignition switch part of a Toyoyta Avenssis rather than repalcing it.

How to fix ignition switch on a Toyota Avensis

Thank you,

Angel124 :D

Another happy customer.

My 1.8 GLS started showing exactly the symptoms on this thread.

£58 with postage to Toyota in Wrexham and the part arrived this morning.

I found the hardest part getting the little plastic cable holders off the side. I also turned the key to align it as it did not want to easily go in but once done the rest was so easy it was quite unreal.

Super post, thanks.

You've probably saved a total of a few thousand quid for us by now. I'll buy you a pint if I ever meet you.

Another happy customer. A super post. !!

So I saved a lot of quids!!. Thanks a lot for your effort to post this excellent workshop!!

This is a short workshop for changing the ignition switch on an Avensis 2.0 1999.

I've had problems with starting the engine since beginning of summer. The symptoms were like this;

when turning the key to the START position, nothing happens. You have to, either turn it from ON to START a few times or wiggle the key while holding it in the START position, to get connection in the lock to start the motor. :ffs:

This is due to a faulty switch behind the locking barrel, that has been worn down so it does not alway connect. This has nothing to do with the imobilizer system or coding of keys, it is only a mechanical problem and will not be solved by re-coding the keys or such.

Be ware, the dealer gave me the wrong part on my first order;

I described the symptoms and where the part is located and they knew exactly what I needed, after a long search in their computer they came up with the part I nedded. It was not in stock so they ordered it.

What I got was a part called something like Coding Unit/Computer Unit remote control (PN 89780-05011).

It's a part in black plastic casing with the front ring around the keyhole (with the text ACC/ON/START) and a short cable with a connector. This is the receiver of the coded keys and it is the wrong part, also it's more expensive and doesn't solve this problem.

When I called them on the phone and described the symptoms again and told them I've got the wrong part, they looked again and came back to me saying that it was the correct part I've got.

After a little convincing that I had a mechanical problem and not a computer problem, he discussed with another guy and finally they found the correct part.

I've had a lot of help from member GnzYza in 'Problems with starting', where you can read how it all started.

Once again, thank GnzYza. :D

1. First you need to get the new part from a Toyota dealer.

The part you need is the SWITCH ASSY, partnumber 84450-02010 (at least for my Avensis -99, but it gives you something to start with at Toyota).

2. Disassembling.

You'll need a cross/pozidrive screwdrive of medium size, that's all you need.

(It might come in handy with some kind of light because it's rather dark behind the dashboard)

First remove the dash casing below the steering wheel, there are 2 black screws, one to the left...

...and one to the right and also the golden screw under the cowling.

Turn the steering wheel so you'll see the last 2 screws behing the wheel...

to the left...

...and to the right.

3. Carefully pull the dash casing a bit outwards in the bottom and slide it down to remove it. There are 3 things stuck to this part; the wire for the front hood, an airtube and a wire with connector on it. These can remain in place, just put the casing on the floor.

4. Separate the top and bottom parts of the cowling, there are only small plastic lockers holding them together now, so a little bending with a screwdriver in the joint between them would do it. The joint is on both the left and the right side, you'll see it clearly if you look close.

The top one could needs not to be removed, but the bottom one does. It might be easier if you loosen the locking handle for adjusting the height of the stearing wheel.

5. Now you should have access to everything under the cowling. Don't be alarmed, it is not so much you have to care about, it is just very much cabling in a very tight space.

Locate the rear of the ignition barrel, where you'll find following parts attached to it:

A and B are just connectors placed on the Switch Assy, remove them, but don't disconnect them.

C is the connector on the Switch Assy. Disconnect it and fold it away.

D is the actual Switch Assy. The arrow points to one of the two screws that holds it in place. (The easy one...)

6. Change the Switch Assy

Remove the two screws that holds the Switch Assy to the rear of the barrel. One is easy to get at, but the other one is rather tricky to access.

The screws might fall off so don't loose them!

Once they are removed, pull the case of the Switch Assy away from the barrel. You can't pull it off all the way, so you'll have to turn it 45 degrees and try to get it out sideways. There are no loose parts there so you are rather free to remove it any way you can. Just keep in mind how you did it since you have to get the new part in, the same way.

7. Assembling.

Place the screw that was hard to get at, in it's hole on the new Switch Assy before placing it in position. It is very hard to get it in place through all cables.

Now, just tighten the screws for the Switch Assy, re-connect the cable (is only one way), fit the two connectors you removed in the beginning, and you're finshed with the hard part.

Fit the bottom part of the cowling again, remember to have all plastic notches in their place. The parts will lock together nicely, fit the 2 screws behind the steering wheel again and also the bottom one.

Place the dash casing in it's place; top first them push in the bottom. Screw it tight in place.

8. Finished.

This is not a hard work and it took me around 25 minutes (including taking the photos). After that my car has started without a problem.

The Switch Assy costed 900 SEK (> £60) but the garage told me they would charge me around 4500 SEK (>£300) to do the change. I don't know how they'd charge me so much for this easy job and now that I know how easy it was, I'd never accept a bill from them with that amount.

I hope this workshop will help somebody in the future, if so, please post you comments on it.

Good luck. :)

Thank you very much for this, my ign barrel has jammed and I cannot get my key in. Car is currently left stranded on a car park so tomorrow I have to try and fix in daylight.

This is a short workshop for changing the ignition switch on an Avensis 2.0 1999.

Thanks Rvall for your very useful instructions for changing the ignition switch on an Avensis.

Further information which may save you the £60 or so for a spare part. This ignition switch seems to be a fault with the Avensis of late 1990s. I found on my car that the key had to be pressed very firmly to the starter position for the starter to operate. After dismantling and much investigation I got to the root of the problem. It is a mechanical, not an electrical problem. The switch itself is probably OK, but the slot can become worn in the top of the plastic white cover. (This accepts the spade projecting from the metal switch barrel.) The fit becomes so sloppy that when the key is turned in the barrel the play is so great that the white cover doesn't turn enough to move the contacts, so the car won't start. To see if this is the case with yours, take the key out of the ignition and hold the switch attached to its connector in one hand and insert a screwdriver in the slot and turn it to the starter position. If the starter works (the car won't fire up because there is no key in the ignition to override the immobiliser)then you don't have to open up the ignition switch; the slot has becomne too big and you have to make a spacer about 5mm wide out of very thin metal to to go down into the slot and take up the slack. (Mine was out of springy phosphor bronze strip about 0.2mm thick). Make a U-shaped piece that will fit down the hole next to the slot so it can hold the other leg of the U in the slot. Then it won't fall out on assembly. On reassembly my car started immediately. If you have the same problem, so will yours.

If it is not this then the ignition switch can be opened up by gently easing in turn the lugs on the white cover so it slips off. Keep the white cover uppermost as it parts or bits will fall out. (However the two metal rings can only go in one way and it is clear where the 6 springs go under them. Clean and then lightly grease the contact surfaces. If you take out the internal barrel of white plastic (unlikely a fault here, so unnecessary) watch out that the two ball bearings and their springs don't fly out!

Good luck.

This is a short workshop for changing the ignition switch on an Avensis 2.0 1999

Thanks Rvall!!

I found this link by accident, I've had the same problem with my late 2000 Avensis. At first we thouoght it was the starter motor, which I've had reconditioned due to the expense of a new one, this was needed as it had burnt the solinoid out. Put it back on same problem - annoyed? - you bet.

Thats when I got on the net and found this, realised it must be the same thing so am in the process of getting it sorted. I've found a new one for under £40 on ebay here's the link.

http://cgi.ebay.ie/NEW-TOYOTA-IGNITION-KEY-STARTER-SWITCH-84450-02010-/300384032039?cmd=ViewItem&pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item45f0489527

But just to let anyone else who has the same problem know, be careful holding the key in start position too long as this is what knackered my starter motor. Also I can start mine easily enough at the moment by jiggling the starter switch. I've taken the bottom part of the steering wheel cowling off so as you can see the switch, all I do is turn the key to start and then jiggle the switch and presto it fires in seconds. This obviously isn't a perminent fix but it is getting us by when we need to.

Thanks again

Dropdeadfred.

Sorry to bump this topic, I have the exact same problem on my Avensis. It's been like it for about 6 months now because I haven't cared for replacing it. But it is at the point now where it's going to be impossible to start if I don't do something.

I noticed that all of you have the 1999 model Avensis. Mine is the 2000 model. Will this guide be the same?

Hi there

I have a Toyota Avensis 2.0 year 2000 and week ago it started getting similar symptoms.At mornings car would start perfectly but during afternoons (very warm ... 30 C)there would be no sign of life although Battery and dashboard lights perfectly working.I even checked starter motor and solenoid with my friend & found them in good condition. I found this forum (very useful) and decided to order new ignition switch.I hope it does the trick.... I will let you know.

Now a question(s)...although this might be a stupid question(s) but please excuse me as I am not a mechanic.Does the heat actually affect ignition switch?Can it be just a loose connection or perhaps just a fuse perhaps popping out(expansion due to heat)

Hi,

There is a possibility to fix this problem completely for free. There is no need to order a new switch. Just put a piece of plate into the defective hole where the shaft fits. The plate should be adjusted to the same size as the existing hole. And the car starts like new.

My Corolla E11 is intermittantly suffering this problem,quite often when trying to restart after a drive and the engine is hot.Does anyone know if the Corolla part number is the same as the Avensis or any other Toyota models?Mine is a year 2000,1.4 engined model.

I'm glad I stumbled upon this thread.

My mother has a 2001 Avensis 1.6.

The first symptoms appeared after a 3 hour drive along the south coast of Norway for our holiday stay three weeks ago. We stopped by a grocery store to buy food, propane and such. We parked the car and came back 20 minutes later. The car wouldn't start. We heard the starter motor kicking in but it failed to crank the engine around. It sounded like it didn't even manage one revolution. Like the cylinder compression stopped it. Just like in a car with a flat Battery.

I didn't have my trusted Fluke with me, or my Battery charger. So we had to push it backwards up the slope from the parking lot and down the steep road in 2nd gear and release the clutch.

We got it started and drove the final 10km to our cabin. We made sure to park it in a slope in case it failed to start again.

I tried charging the Battery later that day after borrowing a charger from a local. But it indicated a full charge!?

This time I tried starting it about ten times and it started perfect.

But two days ago it happened in the middle of nowhere in the mountains of a place called Grotli after a quick stop for photographing.

After a six hour non-stop drive.

Not the place you would want your car to fail on you!

Is the following events the same symptoms as you guys have experienced?

1 - You turn the key to ON.

2 - You turn the key to START to engage starting.

3 - You hear the starter attempting to crank the engine but fails. (As if you have a flat battery).

I'm going over to her house later today to check the battery voltage (with engine off) and charging voltage with engine running to confirm that the battery is ok and that the alternator is charging properly. Just to rule them out.

I have a hunch that both battery and alternator is fine and that my measurements will confirm that.

I just don't want the Toyota dealer ripping her off. (Expensive troubleshooting and over priced labor)

So I'm glad I found this thread.

Sounds pretty much like it.My Corolla will,on the occasions it doesn't start,either make the briefest attempt at operating the starter(just a quick click)or no sound at all.If it does it again push the key inwards whilst turning it to start the car.This is working for me at the moment.Now the temperature has dropped over the last couple of weeks the problem hasn't really happened.