On another topic, just in case I need to have to get a replacement car (will be 2nd-hand) I looked at another Yaris, ten years younger (2012) & with 1.3 engine rather than the current 1.0.  My current Insurance Company, with whom I have 9 year protected No Claims & currently pay £280.00 for year end Nov. 2023-2024, has quoted £2,182.00 if I was to insure with them for this particular Yaris.  I know that Insurance premiums have gone up, but frankly this seems a ridiculous difference & I would welcome an explanation.  Friends I have spoken to seem to pay an average of £300-£400 for similar vehicles.  I'm not a youngster - way over 60.

I've had problems with starting the engine since beginning of summer. The symptoms were like this;

when turning the key to the START position, nothing happens. You have to, either turn it from ON to START a few times or wiggle the key while holding it in the START position, to get connection in the lock to start the motor. :ffs:

This is due to a faulty switch behind the locking barrel, that has been worn down so it does not alway connect. This has nothing to do with the imobilizer system or coding of keys, it is only a mechanical problem and will not be solved by re-coding the keys or such.

Be ware, the dealer gave me the wrong part on my first order;

I described the symptoms and where the part is located and they knew exactly what I needed, after a long search in their computer they came up with the part I nedded. It was not in stock so they ordered it.

What I got was a part called something like Coding Unit/Computer Unit remote control (PN 89780-05011).

It's a part in black plastic casing with the front ring around the keyhole (with the text ACC/ON/START) and a short cable with a connector. This is the receiver of the coded keys and it is the wrong part, also it's more expensive and doesn't solve this problem.

When I called them on the phone and described the symptoms again and told them I've got the wrong part, they looked again and came back to me saying that it was the correct part I've got.

After a little convincing that I had a mechanical problem and not a computer problem, he discussed with another guy and finally they found the correct part.

I've had a lot of help from member GnzYza in 'Problems with starting', where you can read how it all started.

Once again, thank GnzYza. :D

1. First you need to get the new part from a Toyota dealer.

The part you need is the SWITCH ASSY, partnumber 84450-02010 (at least for my Avensis -99, but it gives you something to start with at Toyota).

2. Disassembling.

You'll need a cross/pozidrive screwdrive of medium size, that's all you need.

(It might come in handy with some kind of light because it's rather dark behind the dashboard)

First remove the dash casing below the steering wheel, there are 2 black screws, one to the left...

...and one to the right and also the golden screw under the cowling.

Turn the steering wheel so you'll see the last 2 screws behing the wheel...

to the left...

...and to the right.

3. Carefully pull the dash casing a bit outwards in the bottom and slide it down to remove it. There are 3 things stuck to this part; the wire for the front hood, an airtube and a wire with connector on it. These can remain in place, just put the casing on the floor.

4. Separate the top and bottom parts of the cowling, there are only small plastic lockers holding them together now, so a little bending with a screwdriver in the joint between them would do it. The joint is on both the left and the right side, you'll see it clearly if you look close.

The top one could needs not to be removed, but the bottom one does. It might be easier if you loosen the locking handle for adjusting the height of the stearing wheel.

5. Now you should have access to everything under the cowling. Don't be alarmed, it is not so much you have to care about, it is just very much cabling in a very tight space.

Locate the rear of the ignition barrel, where you'll find following parts attached to it:

A and B are just connectors placed on the Switch Assy, remove them, but don't disconnect them.

C is the connector on the Switch Assy. Disconnect it and fold it away.

D is the actual Switch Assy. The arrow points to one of the two screws that holds it in place. (The easy one...)

6. Change the Switch Assy

Remove the two screws that holds the Switch Assy to the rear of the barrel. One is easy to get at, but the other one is rather tricky to access.

The screws might fall off so don't loose them!

Once they are removed, pull the case of the Switch Assy away from the barrel. You can't pull it off all the way, so you'll have to turn it 45 degrees and try to get it out sideways. There are no loose parts there so you are rather free to remove it any way you can. Just keep in mind how you did it since you have to get the new part in, the same way.

7. Assembling.

Place the screw that was hard to get at, in it's hole on the new Switch Assy before placing it in position. It is very hard to get it in place through all cables.

Now, just tighten the screws for the Switch Assy, re-connect the cable (is only one way), fit the two connectors you removed in the beginning, and you're finshed with the hard part.

Fit the bottom part of the cowling again, remember to have all plastic notches in their place. The parts will lock together nicely, fit the 2 screws behind the steering wheel again and also the bottom one.

Place the dash casing in it's place; top first them push in the bottom. Screw it tight in place.

8. Finished.

This is not a hard work and it took me around 25 minutes (including taking the photos). After that my car has started without a problem.

The Switch Assy costed 900 SEK (> £60) but the garage told me they would charge me around 4500 SEK (>£300) to do the change. I don't know how they'd charge me so much for this easy job and now that I know how easy it was, I'd never accept a bill from them with that amount.

I hope this workshop will help somebody in the future, if so, please post you comments on it.

Good luck. :)

To prevent it crakking, spray once a year with slicone spray.

Are there some risk?  Do I have to watch out that I don't spray other parts next to it?

This code keeps occurring on my Avensis.

the engine check light descent come on, but if a diagnostic tool is connected it can be seen as a current and Historic state

P1443 Particulate filter Lamp Over load Inhibit regeneration.

I have a Toyota Hiace d4d 300 GS LWB 88 BHP 2005 model. Don’t have a manual and can’t seem to find anything about this model anywhere so hope you can help!

The wing mirrors will not move any further outwards to give me a good view of the road, it’s almost like the internal parts are upside down. I took it all apart today and it’s done nothing to remedy it. The actual mirror can turn all the way inwards to point at me inside the vehicle but when pushed outwards shows a sliver of road and then just the side of the van. Is there a way to remedy this? I don’t want to buy whole new mirrors if it will do the same thing. 

It shouldn’t be complex but I’m stumped right now!

Thanks all 🙂

I’ve  got a 67 plate proace comfort.

been told I need to replace the ABS sencors 

ive been told there’s only one

also two and three and four,

appreciate any help.

And Different ip pump and cam timing. 

Willing to pay. Thanks in advance 

How to remove front and rear bumpers and fittings on a vast number of cars. 

REMOVE FRONT & REAR BUMPERS

Go to the front page and learn how to repair plastics.

Covers a number of languages, select UK if it comes up foreign.

Thanks for reading and replying if you do😊

Lisa In Northern Virginia 

I have a 2010 UK Yaris and the indicator switch shows signs of intermittent electrical contact.  YouTube shows me how to remove all including airbag and steering wheel but requires access to two Torqx  screws through the circular plastic shield.  However my car does not have the access holes.  Can anyone tell me please how to remove the cover ?  Thank you in advance.

Have anyone a solution to this because the car is brand new and the dealership cannot reproduce it and does not fix it. It is the 3rd time we are going to the dealership with the same response. Thank you in advance.

Sebastian

I need help please. The key turns freely in the ignition, the dash lights remains on. Car needs to be push start. To switch off i let out the clutch while in gear then disconnect Battery. Also, for a while now, the temp and fuel gauges stay in the maximum position. Thanks in advance

Symptoms: Enginge light, Check VCS and horrible mpgs. 

Bought a cheap OBD2 reader and the ECU presented P0488 and P0487.

P0487 - Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Throttle Control Circuit "A" Open

P0488 - Exhaust Gas Recirculation Throttle Position Control Range/Performance

My first thought was clogged EGR so I cleaned it but it didn't help at all so I went to the local scrapyard and found myself a "new" EGR witch didnt help either. Saddened by this, I decided to go further down the rabbit hole and change the entire throttle valve housing. That fixed it and after clearing the code, the car was like new again 🙂 I used 10mm,12mm,14mm sockets and pliers for the hoses. 

I can post pictures if anyone is interested.

Does anyone know if all the valves are supposed to be completely closed at TDC?

And if one or 2 of the valves are still supposed to be slightly open, how/is it easy to put the camshaft back on under slight valve pressure?

Thanks if anyones got any ideas

2007 mk6

Windows not working,  no wipers, no stereo, no indicator.. no speedo, abs light on engine management light on..4 x4 light on..

It runs fine..

Any ideas thanks 

I am looking for some information on the wiring involved in placing a 4efte from a glanza into my ep80 starlet. I have a 4efte engine loom and ecu along with a fully working ep80 with a 2e-e. I am wondering is it a matter of just repinning the plugs behind the dash that connect the ep80 dash loom to the 4efte engine loom and if so has anybody any pinouts of the plugs needed. 

Thanks for your time, Alan.

Cheers

my expectations are beein cheap and good quality

i change my oil/oil filter/air filter/cabin filter/pads/dbreake disc/gear oil/breake oil

I'm confused to this issuse. which brand is best for my car

oil - Shell, motul, liqui moly, petronas (i use original oil but my engine cooling fan is almost every time running)

gear oil - original oil, liqui moly (75w, gl-4 or gl-4+)

breake oil - liqui moly dot4 sl6 or dot 5.1

oil filter - mann, mahle, js akashi, original part

air filter - mann, mahle, js akashi, original parts

cabin filter - mann, mahle, js akashi original part

breake pads - trw, originial part, nibk

breake disc - trw, original part, nibk

where can i download a workshop manual for 1NZ-FE  1.499 Engine - its for a 2000 toyota allex

We have the above van. While driving, it started to play up while changing gears. Eventually I couldn't select any other gear position that would let me drive apart from 1st gear position. Now while parked with or with out using clutch I cant select 2nd gear position. I can select 1st position which lets me drive forward. 3rd,4th,5th and reverse and even nuetral I can select, but these positions all just stall the vehicle with no movement at all with or with out the clutch.

Any ideas and input much appreciated.

Pete