Old Hiace (rh32) Camper - Ongoing Problems.

A few weeks ago I bought a campervan - since then something has gone wrong pretty much everytime I have driven it anywhere - and I've only left the confines of my home town once.

It's a 1981 Toyota Hi-ace van (RH32), with a 18R 1968 cc engine. Manual choke and 4 speed gearbox.

The normal symptoms seem to be a loss of power, then the engine stalls. On restarting the engine it fires, but cuts out after a few seconds. If i'm feeling lucky it idles OK but cuts out once I put it in gear.

I've had Green Flag breakdown come and pick me up twice now, and it's confused them both times (same bloke - how embarrasing). By the time they get to me everything seems fine. Engine starts and I can drive off without any trouble.

After the first problem, I took it for a complete service and oil change etc. Garage man said it was fine (apart from all the welding that needs doing before next MOT).

After second breakdown I took it to the same garage (on the back of a towtruck for dramatic effect) and garage man changed the spark plugs and HT leads.

So by now I think it must be sorted. Except on Saturday after about 15 miles, I had exactly the same problem (although this time it was preceeded by two loud bangs from near the airfilter). It could not have happened in a more inconvenient place (Green Rd round-about for anyone who knows Oxford).

So this time, I'm clever, and don't phone for Green Flag. I just wait.

About 20mins later, with a big gap in traffic, I drive off like nothing happened. Went home the quickest way, but felt like something was still 'up' as the engine stalled whenever the revs dropped (even with the cluth in).

So? I appeal to your collective wisdom. What's wrong? I'm thinking that there's an overheating problem somewhere. But how do I track it down when the problem is so intermittent?

Usually the last thing garages check - have a look at or replace the fuel filter. I had a 'similar' problem with my 18R-G engined Celica at one time, engine would cut out usually when accelerating or climbing a hill, then after 10 or 15 minutes of standing would fire up OK and run fine until the same thing happened.

Spent a fortune changing electrical parts until in last hope I took it to a different Mr T who said - fuel filter! Sure enough, changed it and no further problems. Apparently sediment from the fuel tank was being drawn up into the filter, settling in the bottom and then being sucked up and blocking it whenever I needed more 'power.'

It may not be your cure but for the ease of change and cost involved it is something easily overlooked.

Hope this helps :)

I was going to suggest the Fuel Filter too.

There are places that will refurb the petrol tank if it's full of sediment. They can wash it out and reseal the inside to prevent the problem reoccurring.

Good luck

Ta very much to you both.

I'll investigate the fuel filter when I get home.

Update: I don't even have a fuel filter fitted! I've followed all the fuel lines and can't find it. According to the Haynes manual it should be in the Battery compartment but the fuel lines don't even go there. However, I think I found the old filter in a cupboard in the back of the campervan. Now I need to work out how and where to put it back...

I know this was a long time ago, I have a 1979 Hiace Camper RH32 18R 2.0 engine. Where did you get your Haynes Manual from? I've been looking for one.

i know its a 10 year old thread my hi-ace use to cut out when hot because the expansion of the valves rockers and rods was causing there to be no valve clearance gap so the valve was not fully closed when hot but closed when cold. 

 The clearances need to be set when hot not warm or cold, im not sure about 18r engine as mine is a 12r petrol engine

Hi there,

Happy Hiace Endurer,

Since the van has reached to 40 years old , I can simply suggest to replace : Float tang inside the carby and reset the float heigh ( 10mm - 12mm ) . Problem can be when engine is hot, it’s starving for fuel and no fuel , no go !!!

I've had the same problem with my Hiace for years. And managed it by having choke out a little bit and some swift foot movement on the pedals, trying to keep the accelerator going a little bit. I love my hiace, but having had the clearances done and fuel filter replaced, it improved for a little bit and then started doing it again. I do find driving her stressful, though sort of manageable but not ideal 😕

I'm wishing yours improves, I would love to hear if the problem stops! Good luck!!

Love that comment Happy Hiace Endurer from @Hai from VN

That's definitely the words for it 😆

Take out the Battery, unscrew it's shelf and heypresto there's the fuel filter. Replacement is under a tenner. Question. What does RH32 represent?

On 9/13/2023 at 12:38 PM, smudgey said:

Question. What does RH32 represent?

Hey Smudgey. Me no Hablo Japanese but this sales catalogue from 1980 might help.

 https://www.toyota.co.jp/jpn/company/history/75years/vehicle_lineage/catalog/60001848B/html5.html#page=23. 

From what i can see, RH20/30/40 refers to wheelbase (small/med/long) 0/1/2suffix is potentially engine size? The letters after the RH code certainly refer to the body type eg Bus/panel van/ pickup etc. 

Hope that helps. 

Perpetual problems with them, which is why I didn't even take on a job like this once. I am more comfortable working either with older models, or vice versa with newer ones, differently. It also depends on the year of assembly. But you can help you blog about 6.7 powerstroke delete. There are many different articles there, maybe you will find something for yourself.

Hi. I'm Terry. Does anybody know what model carby should be on an 18R engine. Mine is a Nikki but I suspect it's not the original or what carbys would suit. Ta