we’ve been all over internet with no luck so hoping someone on here could help.

also wondering would hiace van calliper fit or are there other alternatives that would work. Is a cylinder kit an option to repair the old calliper thanks again 

recently my toyota blade has a creaking noise which sounds like it is coming from underneath the car on the drivers side. Everytime i slightly accelerate and take my foot off the pedal it creaks, sounds like a rusty door trying to open. Any ideas as to what this could be? I have a feeling it could be lower control arm bushes but want to get some opinions. Thanks

I have a problem as above, I don't know how to illuminate dashboard in my car I bought recently off car dealership as my first car. It is a Toyota Vitz 2014 automatic 1.0. The manual I was provided it`s in Japanese so i used Google Translate, but there is nothing about this, should I go to mechanic to check on this? Is it possible that my car has no illuminate dashboard, is there anything I can do about this? It's 2014 model and every day I am coming back home after my shift I do not see speedometer because my dashboard it's not illuminated. I would appreciate any help and advice in advance, please and thank you.

Can't upload images so here is the link to the gallery, I hope it helps

https://imgur.com/a/5bAyHbE

Very parts related query, @Parts-King or @flash22  let me know if I should ping you directly.

I would ask what coolant type Toyota reccomends for Starlets with 4EFE engines?

Thank You!

Here is my latest Toyota vehicle - a mountain bike from Toyota. I do now know who made the frames, but the gear group were Shimano Acera (3x7), it has Promax disc brakes with mechanical brakes and a low budget RST Capa T6 spring fork. The bike is the 106th (or 6th) produced according to the manufacture's serial number and 18th imported to Denmark according to the Danish frame number, which it was done in 2006. The price in 2008 were DKK 4.495 - which were roughly £400-450 at the time I think. For today's money it is around DKK 5.850 or £672 - I don't know about prices in the UK but here that would have been an entry bike, if I remember correct.

I have bought it second hand, so it does not have all the original parts anymore; the freewheel have been changed (most likely due to wear) to a SunRace freewheel - and for reason's I can't quite figure out, the rear gear selector have been swapped out for a Sram X7 9-speed selector. The handles have also been changed - those are also getting a bit worn, as are the chain rings. The seat was the first I changed as it had a gaping hole in the upholstry.

Apart from changing the saddle and adding a few features such as a bell (required by law), mud guards and bottle cages, I have decided maybe it is time to do some upgrade on the bike:

• Fork: I have a RockShox Recon Air - it is a 27.5" fork, but should work out fine.
• Pedals: I have gotten a pair of Specialized Bennies - in red; it looks like it's almost the same colour as the bike
• Gearing: Here I might change a little more than just get new parts - I've found a few Deore 2x10 speed crank and pedal arms with Octolink (this will require the crank box being changed as well) - this will also require a change in the rear gearing to a 10 speed (cassette), which will require me to change my wheel to one with a freehub, my derailleurs, chain and shifters.
• Brakes: I have found a complete Deore XT hydraulic brake set - might go for that!
• Handle: Since I need to change it anyway I decided to get something crazy expensive but really nice! This was planned before things went crazy. I am going for a pair of Matrix G59 handles in leather and alloy - this is kind of to resemble the cars I have which both are leather and metal in the cockpit. This set of handles cost the same as I bought the bike for (DKK 400 / £ 46).
• Mud guards: Yes I have already fitted some on, but I really don't like them: I want to change them to something else.

Before all this crazyness is happening, here is the photo of how it does look now:

Today it's not possible to get a Acera freewheel only a Tourney, and generally freewheels are scares compared to cassettes, so this is one reason for why my project suddenly went crazy.

What I don't know is if I should keep the original parts to have the original option, sell them or use them to build a spare bike. To begin with I will keep them as I need to test ride that new fork before I can decide if the larger fork will change too much on the ergonomy of the bike. Instead of changing the entire wheel I am also considering to just change the hubs with some Shimano hubs with a freehub and disc brake mount and have it set up at a local bike shop to keep the original 36 spoked Jalco wheels. 

The cables have also eaten away a little bit of the colour of the front, so I have installed some rubber frame protectors, but I would like to fix up the colour of the head tube - I imagine this should be an original Toyota colour, I am just unsure of which one it is 😉

Ok, I know this isn’t a Toyota but please hear me out! 😁👍

Here is my rare 1998 Subaru Domingo that was imported from Japan at some point.

I bought it recently with no engine fitted (came with 2 which are 1200cc 3cyl with 61bhp) but had a dead CVT gearbox. I’m hoping to put it back on the road as a fun daily driver.

I’ve been looking around for a replacement gearbox which now seems impossible in the UK and still very difficult in the rest of Europe where some of these were sold!

So this now leads me to consider totally different engine options but on a bit of a budget!?

The van being rear engined and RWD and the engine being under the boot floor, limits my options if I want to keep my boot space.
I also want it to be fun but reliable enough for daily driving. 

I’m also a massive Toyota fan and have a Lexus LS400 and a 1981 Toyota Corolla that’s getting a Lexus V8 put in it. If I can put a Toyota engine in the van it will be a perfect fit in the set! 👍

The Toyota IQ with its 1300cc 1NR-FE caught my eye mainly because of its unusual gearbox design having the drive shafts infront of the engine. This configuration would work well in the back of my van. I’m wondering if any other Toyota engines would mate up to that gearbox? Maybe the 1500cc 2NR-FE or similar? Maybe even an older engine that has less electronics?? A little more power won’t hurt 😁.

That’s as far as my knowledge goes at this stage, so what can you guys tell me about them? 

- Reliability?
- Engine availability?
- Ease of wiring for shifter/ECU/dash etc? (
(Im hoping it hasn’t got 10000 sensors and - ECUs to deal with?)
Overall engine simplicity?
Safe tuning possibilities?
Things to look out for?

I'm trying to keep things as simple as possible but having something with good reliability, driveability, economy and if I can increase its performance from its stock 61bhp to keep up with modern traffic that would be a bonus. Basically the perfect daily 👍.

Any thoughts and assistance would be gratefully received, and even other engine suggestions. If I go ahead with this of course I’ll keep you posted 😁

Thanks all 😁👍

cheers

has anyone got a link for where I can get replacement door seals? 
 

or has anyone had this issue previously and found out that it is being caused by something else? 
 

Pretty busy atm so haven’t had a chance to investigate yet any help would be appreciated so I can narrow down what to look for when I get a chance to have a look! 
 

thanks in advance! 

Cheers Graham

I need replacement Spring Coil height adjuster [see attached pictures]  with the Ring mount which has to be replaced due to slow corrosion 

The installed suspension model is RS-R Ti2000 . As shown in the pic , the part within the rectangle is required with the ring mount [for both rear wheels]  I could not identify online what the part is called. If somebody can assist with the part name and any links where to purchase the part, it would be much appreciated 

Thanks,

Just wanted to share my experience with the fuel filter given that some here may want to change it at some point. The Carina filter is in a difficult place and is, in my opinion, rather badly designed. I thought I'd put a step by step guide together to help anyone who has to deal with it. It's very long but I was bored today so..

Most of this will be obvious to the experienced mechanic. I've gone into way too much detail - sort of a filter change for dummies , but the fact that fuel dribbles everywhere make the swap over even more of a nuisance...

The top of the filter is a "banjo" union onto a rubber hose, the lower a straight union bolt onto a metal fuel line. Only the bottom one will give significant trouble. I found no crush washers to replace on the bottom union which is probably why the darn thing has to be so incredibly tight. The top has two copper washers, one on either side of the side (banjo) connection.

Firstly, spray top and bottom with WD-40 and leave overnight. The fuel pressure should go to nothing in this time (at least I had no problems), saving you having to relieve the fuel pressure.

Buy a 14 mm flare wrench. I got a 13x14 one from Halfords. This will save you rounding the bottom union bolt. Don't even think about using a shifting wrench/adjustable spanner.

You'll also need a 19mm open spanner, a 17mm socket + extension bar + tbar if you have it. The tbar allowed me to get more torque on the top nut. Also some disposable gloves. Petrol is really unpleasant stuff.

Right. Release the mounting bracket from the bulkhead. Don't bother releasing the filter clamping bolt. Remove the rubber mounting bungs and, using some large washers, remount the bracket to the bulkhead. This secures the filter to the bulkhead in such a way that it is doesn't flex when pressure is applied to the bolts.

The top banjo bolt should loosen easily enough, especially if you have a tbar. With the wd40 soak, it released so easily for me that I managed to punch myself in the nose with one hand and punch something painful with the other. Watch yourself!!! Tighten it back up just enough to stop fuel pouring out...

Use the flare spanner on the bottom (remember to go clockwise!). I couldn't release it and had to do this: I held the filter in place by using a 19mm open spanner on the filter nut, meanwhile my brother (who is stronger) used the flare spanner on the union. A tap with a rubber hammer might help here if there's room - some impact might be necessary.

Once loosened, retighten finger tight to stop fuel pouring out. It might drip. No worries.

The new filter should come with a bung in the top hole and a cap on the bottom. These are useful. First put on some disposable gloves. I had some from a medical supply somewhere that were resistant to petrol. I'm sure Halfords or similar will sell them. They're dead cheap. Eye protection is not a bad idea either.

Fuel on skin is nasty. It itches and burns and is generally unpleasant. The Haynes suggests taping or plugging the fuel lines when you take the filter off - don't bother, it's more trouble. DO NOT try and put your finger over the metal fuel line to stop the flow. You've got your head down in the engine bay and there is just enough head pressure there to spray fuel right into your face as your finger closes the opening. This is not good... Really. Just don't do it (yeah, I did it...)

You won't spill much fuel so don't worry about that. The bit that spills onto the ground will evaporate soon enough. There's simply no room for containers in the engine bay... If you really want to, you could shove a container underneath the car...

Remove the mounting bracket bulkhead bolts. Remove the top banjo union. One of the washers will probably escape - don't worry about it. Use the rubber bung from the new filter to block the hole (might spurt a bit so watch your face). Take the opportunity to remove the clamp bolt and take off the mounting bracket.

Have the cap from new filter and the new filter handy - remove the bottom union (it's captive and there are no washers so there's nothing to catch). Just use your fingers; there's enough to juggle with without adding tools too! Flip the old filter over and cap it. Take the new filter and stick it on the fuel line, screw the union in with your hand as tight as your gloved fingers can get it. Do use your fingers here cause it's way too easy to cross the threads on the lower connector.

The fuel filter will slowly be filling up - should be enough time to grab the old filter, pull the bung out and slap the bung on to the top of new filter. Whew!

Now you can get the mounting bracket, put the rubber mounts back in and fit it to the filter. Put the bracket clamp bolt in first - you'll never get it in if you screw the bulkhead bolts in first. Finally, fit new sealing washers on either side of the banjo union and fit that. I recommend you try and hold the bottom washer up against the banjo with your fingers as you fit it. Once you take the rubber bung out, the fuel dribble tries to wash the washer away - very frustrating.

Tighten the unions. Don't go nuts on the top union - the washers make that unnecessary. Start the car. Note the drip from the bottom union. Stop car, tighten union up, start car, note drip etc etc. It's a pain in the face. I used the 19 mm open and the 14mm flare and squeezed them together with both hands to get the drip to stop. There's not enough room down there to do anything else.

Hope all this helps!

Conor.

I have a 2006 Noah 2.0 and recently got an after-market tow bar fitted. 

The specifications say the max downward force on the ball is not to exceed 50k, this is very low.

I'm keen to hear from anyone who has towed up to this limit. It seems very low. I am heavier than that and can stand on the ball and the nose of the car does not seem to lift much at all. 

Thanks

1. Engine is misfiring.

2. Fuel economy in now low averaging 8km/l. It used to average 11-12 km/l.

No. 2 is my biggest problem. Can someone help me out?

My silver previa is a 7 seater 2001/2 CDX automatic petrol. It's done 120k miles approx.  

It has had quite a few repairs lately and it's been a struggle to get parts for it.

The exhaust was blowing recently and my local garage couldn't find a new exhaust for it saying they had been discontinued.  Fortunately the body workshop was able to repair it ... this time.  

The drive shaft had to be replaced and after getting the wrong part delivered (even though it was the right part number), it looked like the only option would be to buy one from Toyota Japan for £1k+.  Luckily the garage managed to get the right part from someone in Birmingham in the end after a lot of internet surfing and trying to match the part to the photos.

I'd like to keep using my previa.  I'm not a mechanic so I do rely on my local garage to keep it on the road. 

Just wondering and thinking ahead (eg a new exhaust), what do other previa/estima owners do for their parts?

Thanks in advance

2004 Toyota Yaris Verso 1.3vvti petrol.

I am at my wit's end trying to source a low pressure in tank petrol fuel pump for the above.

After a 1k mile trip the fuel pump packed in outside my house.

Toyota want £410 for a new pump so I purchased a used one from a 2005 car and it is totally different.

I then purchased a new one from Autodoc in Germany but the electrical spade connectors on the top of the pump are twice the size of the original broken pump.

Please see attached pictures. The brown pump is the failed original and the black one is the new one from Autodoc.

1: Can the broken pump be repaired?

2: Is a cable available to make the correct electrical connection?

3: My highly experienced auto electrician would not crimp the ends to make it work due to the explosion risk.

4: My car has a "Made in Japan" Badge in the top of the windscreen.

Any help or ideas would be greatly appreciated.

I waited 19 years to buy this car and it's immaculate and tight as a drum with only 60k miles.

I want to keep the car for the rest of my life as I love it so much.

I have managed to source all other parts needed but this fuel pump is driving me crazy.

Kind regards,

Otterwood.

Does anybody know if it's possible to connect OBD-II scanner to Carina E 1.8 96.

And what is the protocol are using in Carina's for diagnostics ..... ?

Thanks....