IQ Air con system

Just seen this on eBay if anyone is interested. Advert says :

Toyota IQ Air Con Compressor Flow Sensor Repair Kit B1479

Its eBay though so straight away extremely sceptical. My IQ s with the local garage today for exactly this, air con regassed and serviced then blowing warm air weeks later. I am not spending any money on it so if it is nothing obvious I will have to leave it.

A seal replaced, and inspection and a re gas - £115. Wonder how long it will last.

I have an iq3 with the 1.3 and the compressor looks different, does it still have a flow sensor? If so where is it located so that I can try the magnet fix first? 

On 8/1/2022 at 5:27 PM, tiburb said:

A little update from my side:

Unfortunately I wasn't able to permanently attach the magnet to the sensor so after one day the A/C stopped working again.

Determined to solve the problem once and for all, I continued my search and came across this thread on a Lexus discussion board: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx-3rd-gen-2010-2015/824215-rx350-2010-2011-air-conditioning-dtc-b1479-cheap-solution-8.html

It seems that the best way is to buy tiny magnets made of neodymium (very strong) and attach at least one of them onto the upper round part of the flow sensor. It took me a while and some balancing with my fingers to reach the sensor below the engine while holding onto one of those tiny magnets (I ordered the 6x3mm ones). I released the magnet from my fingers close to its destination and it immediately snapped onto the top of the round piece. The result: the A/C compressor engages again when pressing the button!

According to the Lexus guys there's no need to glue it as the magnet should be sufficiently strong to stay in place.

Good luck!

 

 

 

My AC is only mildly cool at the lowest setting; could this be a flow sensor issue too? As far as I know last time the system was charged was 2016 so I guess it could be more likely the system no longer has charge? 

8 hours ago, rahilb said:

My AC is only mildly cool at the lowest setting; could this be a flow sensor issue too? As far as I know last time the system was charged was 2016 so I guess it could be more likely the system no longer has charge? 

I got the system recharged at kwik fit: it didn’t work and the cool air I was feeling was just air coming from outside 🤦🏽‍♂️, will try the magnet fix! Kwik fit also are refunding the recharge so hopefully the cheap fix comes through… they said it’s likely the compressor. 

On 7/29/2022 at 6:13 PM, tiburb said:

This. guy.

I owe you a pint, my personal hero. I just registered here to let you know that.

For everybody else, see below my simple yet effective approach for total noobs based on @Dannyw13's genius solution which will save you a lot of money:

1. Get a magnet like this one (see photo below), banana for scale. I got mine from a  souvenir fridge magnet.

2. Locate the A/C compressor below the engine. You will be able to recognise it once you spotted the black cable on top of it.

3. Once you have located the A/C compressor, get a torch and locate the flow sensor which is essentially another piece of plastic next to the cable you located earlier. This photo below from user @tarquinhelped me to verify that I was looking at the right thing.

4. Get some duct tape and attach the little magnet on top of the flow sensor. It should be sufficient to keep the magnet in place once you start the engine.

5. Start the engine, turn on the A/C and enjoy the cool breeze. Then turn off the engine without turning off the A/C.

6. Remove the magnet (which I did) or try to find a permanent solution as @Dannyw13 did (glue? tape?).

7. Turn on the engine, the A/C should work fine.

Thanks for reading this, hope it helps you as well!

 

Thanks for the post and the instructions I’m a bit confused though… your picture with the arrow seems to map to the pressure valve from the technical drawing not the compressor, the only thing I can identify as even close to the part from the second image is circled in green… should the magnet go there between the two wires?

https://i.postimg.cc/QMQ68WSN/IMG-6385.jpg

 

My engine bay is way different to that with a 1.3 4 cylinder squeezed in, will try a gain another day now that I think I may have located the flow sensor on the compressor.

13 hours ago, Crazylegscraneop said:

My engine bay is way different to that with a 1.3 4 cylinder squeezed in, will try a gain another day now that I think I may have located the flow sensor on the compressor.

HI Andy,I have the iq3 as well ,with the same problem.There is an access cover behind the front right drivers side wheel,this gives access to the pulley belts including the compressor,I did try to locate it last summer,but my mobility problems left me to abandon the hunt!!!

Please let me know how get on,be nice to be cool again!

On 7/29/2022 at 6:13 PM, tiburb said:

This. guy.

I owe you a pint, my personal hero. I just registered here to let you know that.

For everybody else, see below my simple yet effective approach for total noobs based on @Dannyw13's genius solution which will save you a lot of money:

1. Get a magnet like this one (see photo below), banana for scale. I got mine from a  souvenir fridge magnet.

2. Locate the A/C compressor below the engine. You will be able to recognise it once you spotted the black cable on top of it.

3. Once you have located the A/C compressor, get a torch and locate the flow sensor which is essentially another piece of plastic next to the cable you located earlier. This photo below from user @tarquinhelped me to verify that I was looking at the right thing.

4. Get some duct tape and attach the little magnet on top of the flow sensor. It should be sufficient to keep the magnet in place once you start the engine.

5. Start the engine, turn on the A/C and enjoy the cool breeze. Then turn off the engine without turning off the A/C.

6. Remove the magnet (which I did) or try to find a permanent solution as @Dannyw13 did (glue? tape?).

7. Turn on the engine, the A/C should work fine.

Thanks for reading this, hope it helps you as well!

I can confirm that the “Magnet” fix worked for me, I have the 1L engine and manual gearbox.

I had the ac regassed as it was not doing anything, the mechanic said that it was holding gas and there was not leak, but the compressor is not tuning on when you press the ac button, The test he used for this was when you press the ac button the engine should change revs as it compensates for the increased load, they don’t do repairs to left it like that.

After reading up on it, I did the test mentioned on here with the On-Board diagnostics (Hold Auto and Recirculate whilst initiating Ignition) and it reported Code 79 (clutch is not engaging on compressor).

So, I looked at the fix with the magnets, but physically I think this must be one of the hardest car repairs I have ever done, due to how hard it is to access the part.

This is how I accessed the part, as I found the instructions not very clear how to access it.

1. First turn the steering all the way to the left, this will give you room to access the removable panel behind the right wheel that is intended to help with belt changes.
2. Then remove the three plastic rivets, there is a tool for this that I don’t have, so I popped them open with a large flat head screwdriver.
3. This will then give you access to the bottom/back of the engine that you need, the compressor is the lowest part that has a pulley and uses the belt, and you cannot see the flow sensor from any angle that I could work out without using a mirror.
4. From here on in you will have to do it all by touch, as you are not able to see what you are doing; I did find that unplugging the compressor connector and taking the plug off its mount helped but its optional.
5. Now the easy bit, using the picture from the above post start feeling for the flow sensor and pop the magnet on top of it, so that the magnet sticks to the locking ring on the top, this is the part that took me two hours! as threading a magnet past an engine bay that made of metal and full of metal, is quite challenging to say the least.
6. Then test it by starting the car and tuning the ac on an off, if it’s working you will hear the engine sound change every time you press it, if you have gas in it, it should start to feel cold in about 30 seconds, but if you are getting  the engine sound change and no cold, I suggest getting a regas.

I used Neodymium Magnets from e-magnetsuk.com as I had some from work, they are only stuck on by magnetism and nothing else, but I would be surprised if they come off as they are very strong.

Hope that’s helpful to some of you, as it has saved me a massive repair bill and cost me nothing other then some knuckles to get it working.

Thanks for the detailed instructions going to give it a go today. 

I ran the diagnostics on my car and it just flashes 00; does that mean there’s no error code? Or is 00 itself an error 

On 6/26/2023 at 12:17 PM, Monkeyboy2283 said:

I can confirm that the “Magnet” fix worked for me, I have the 1L engine and manual gearbox.

I had the ac regassed as it was not doing anything, the mechanic said that it was holding gas and there was not leak, but the compressor is not tuning on when you press the ac button, The test he used for this was when you press the ac button the engine should change revs as it compensates for the increased load, they don’t do repairs to left it like that.

After reading up on it, I did the test mentioned on here with the On-Board diagnostics (Hold Auto and Recirculate whilst initiating Ignition) and it reported Code 79 (clutch is not engaging on compressor).

So, I looked at the fix with the magnets, but physically I think this must be one of the hardest car repairs I have ever done, due to how hard it is to access the part.

This is how I accessed the part, as I found the instructions not very clear how to access it.

1. First turn the steering all the way to the left, this will give you room to access the removable panel behind the right wheel that is intended to help with belt changes.
2. Then remove the three plastic rivets, there is a tool for this that I don’t have, so I popped them open with a large flat head screwdriver.
3. This will then give you access to the bottom/back of the engine that you need, the compressor is the lowest part that has a pulley and uses the belt, and you cannot see the flow sensor from any angle that I could work out without using a mirror.
4. From here on in you will have to do it all by touch, as you are not able to see what you are doing; I did find that unplugging the compressor connector and taking the plug off its mount helped but its optional.
5. Now the easy bit, using the picture from the above post start feeling for the flow sensor and pop the magnet on top of it, so that the magnet sticks to the locking ring on the top, this is the part that took me two hours! as threading a magnet past an engine bay that made of metal and full of metal, is quite challenging to say the least.
6. Then test it by starting the car and tuning the ac on an off, if it’s working you will hear the engine sound change every time you press it, if you have gas in it, it should start to feel cold in about 30 seconds, but if you are getting  the engine sound change and no cold, I suggest getting a regas.

I used Neodymium Magnets from e-magnetsuk.com as I had some from work, they are only stuck on by magnetism and nothing else, but I would be surprised if they come off as they are very strong.

Hope that’s helpful to some of you, as it has saved me a massive repair bill and cost me nothing other then some knuckles to get it working.

Hi Steve. This is very interesting as I too have just acquired a 2009 IQ2 that has just been re-gassed as the AC didn’t work so I will be trying this fix toot sweet. Thanks, Ray

I had mine serviced in April and they replaced a seal. It was fine until last week when the passenger side now has no air con, however the driver side does still have 75% air con. That said it is not as cold as it has been for the last few months. I am getting what I got before too, sound of hissing when I start the car and system up which disappears after around 20 seconds. 

Is this related to the magnet thing above? I don't really want to keep piling money out on fixes.

Did they use a dye?

Such that you could take a look with a UV torch? 

Quote

On 8/12/2023 at 11:43 AM, Dizeee said:

I had mine serviced in April and they replaced a seal. It was fine until last week when the passenger side now has no air con, however the driver side does still have 75% air con. That said it is not as cold as it has been for the last few months. I am getting what I got before too, sound of hissing when I start the car and system up which disappears after around 20 seconds. 

 

Is this related to the magnet thing above? I don't really want to keep piling money out on fixes.

 

I am no expert when it comes to A/C systems but the hissing - more of a slurping to my ears - was as symptom of low refrigerant charge in the case of both of my cars. Les than two weeks ago, I had the iQ regassed and the noise has gone, at least for now (59g of R134a was recovered, it was slurping and just barely cooling, before a recharge to 360g)...

I did find a leaky Schrader valve and told the mechanic about it so he replaced that for me... I think you might have a slow leak somewhere unforunately. My C1 eventually went back to slurping and about 6-12 months after the regas the A/C stopped working altogether.

The UV dye can be quite useful - especially in the case of a more substantial leak...

I've no idea what they did as it wasn't explained well. I took it in with a problem and their response was they would do a re gas and inspection. They gassed it and told me they had replaced a seal as it was leaking. And to be fair the system did last around 3 months fairly well.

I just read stores of endless air con issues on here and don't want to Shell out hundreds for a car that moves 2k miles a year.

10 hours ago, Dizeee said:

I just read stores of endless air con issues on here and don't want to shell out hundreds for a car that moves 2k miles a year.

That's understandable.

I hope yours needs an easy fix if you do decide to persue it further, but I don't think the magnet trick will work for you.
That said, I'm no expert so do stand to be corrected.

On 5/25/2018 at 12:37 PM, Lambous said:

Thanks for the reply Bug.Basically as i ve send Dave my situation has this way: I had a faulty AMP preventing the control panel to work properly(working for 2-3 min and then blank). Anyway i ve change the amp with the same code and problem fixed.However through the faulty amp the compressor is kicking when you press AC but with the new one does not.Maybe the new amp needs programming?It is a strange situation since The 2 amps are exactly the same with the same codes.Anyway i will go now to the garage to see what the technician has to say and keep you updated.Also if you have any clue what it might be the issue,feel free to come back to me.(sorry for my English language however it is not my first language)

Hi all
I am experiencing the same problem as described here.
iQ 3 with auto AC
The control panel will work for 4-5min and then stop working. It goes blank and the fan and all AC functions go off.
I've tried another amplifier (88650-74031 whereas mine is 88650-74032 but I don't think it's a problem) but the problem is the same. Works for 4-5min then stops

Do you have any idea what I could try to source the problem?

Thanks!

Me... I'd probably take it to a local air-con specialist. Maybe a recommendation from a friend?

This is not a "general aircon" issue, but definitely a Toyota related problem (fuse/calculator/relay?)
The AC specialist will only be able to work on generic items such as compressor, evaporator etc.

On 6/26/2023 at 12:17 PM, Monkeyboy2283 said:

I can confirm that the “Magnet” fix worked for me, I have the 1L engine and manual gearbox.

I had the ac regassed as it was not doing anything, the mechanic said that it was holding gas and there was not leak, but the compressor is not tuning on when you press the ac button, The test he used for this was when you press the ac button the engine should change revs as it compensates for the increased load, they don’t do repairs to left it like that.

After reading up on it, I did the test mentioned on here with the On-Board diagnostics (Hold Auto and Recirculate whilst initiating Ignition) and it reported Code 79 (clutch is not engaging on compressor).

So, I looked at the fix with the magnets, but physically I think this must be one of the hardest car repairs I have ever done, due to how hard it is to access the part.

This is how I accessed the part, as I found the instructions not very clear how to access it.

1. First turn the steering all the way to the left, this will give you room to access the removable panel behind the right wheel that is intended to help with belt changes.
2. Then remove the three plastic rivets, there is a tool for this that I don’t have, so I popped them open with a large flat head screwdriver.
3. This will then give you access to the bottom/back of the engine that you need, the compressor is the lowest part that has a pulley and uses the belt, and you cannot see the flow sensor from any angle that I could work out without using a mirror.
4. From here on in you will have to do it all by touch, as you are not able to see what you are doing; I did find that unplugging the compressor connector and taking the plug off its mount helped but its optional.
5. Now the easy bit, using the picture from the above post start feeling for the flow sensor and pop the magnet on top of it, so that the magnet sticks to the locking ring on the top, this is the part that took me two hours! as threading a magnet past an engine bay that made of metal and full of metal, is quite challenging to say the least.
6. Then test it by starting the car and tuning the ac on an off, if it’s working you will hear the engine sound change every time you press it, if you have gas in it, it should start to feel cold in about 30 seconds, but if you are getting  the engine sound change and no cold, I suggest getting a regas.

I used Neodymium Magnets from e-magnetsuk.com as I had some from work, they are only stuck on by magnetism and nothing else, but I would be surprised if they come off as they are very strong.

Hope that’s helpful to some of you, as it has saved me a massive repair bill and cost me nothing other then some knuckles to get it working.

Just a follow on from this post, its nearly a year later and the “Magnet” fix is still going strong with the AC still working normally.