where is the reverse switch on the gearbox ? 1.3 6 speed man

Where is the reverse switch on the 1.33 , 6 speed manual gearbox???? I thought it was the bit circled in red but it appears not to be . I would also like to know what this switch is as messing with it caused a warning light. Is it a gearbox temperature sender ? Ive seen a photo on the web which shows some sort of switch or sensor with a wire at the back of the gearbox but I cant see or get to it.   If that is the reverse switch how do you reach it? drop the gearbox ?

To go to the begining of the story, my reverse light is out and its not the bulb. Measuring the connector it is giving 3v instead of 12v. Any suggestions? Also is there any way of turning the ignition on without running the engine? Pressing start and not the clutch seems to just cause aux to turn on and reverse lights are not operable in that mode. Its difficult to diagnose while sitting in the drivers seat

Can't answer about location of reversing light switch, however, if you press the start button a second time (without your foot on the clutch) the ignition will come on.

Thanks Dash, I never knew that.  Im pretty sure I have identified the switch location. Its right at the back of the gearbox sandwiched against the bulkhead.  I can get my fingers on it but it looks like it will be very difficult to change. I've ordered a new one at great cost from Toyota as I don't want to be removing it more than once.

Not sure if this post helps (might be a 1.0 engine)

Open the link to see the photos

@J0nny Keep us posted with how you get on

you have circled the neutral switch (8) - the reverse switch is on the top of the gearbox (10)

Thanks all. Ive identified the switch. Mine is the 1.33 with 6 speed box and the switch is right at the back against the bulkhead. I can get my hand on it. A socket wont go on unless I cut the wire off. I'm not sure if there is enough room for a spanner. Same with the wire and connector, I can feel it but can't see it. Anyway, as its going to be difficult to get at Im not going to mess around traying to clean it, I have ordered a new hyper expensive one from the Stealer. 50 Quid - they are a tenner on Ebay  but I don't want any problems so paid the extra. I get it tomorrow so will look again then.  I will pull the wheel off and see if access is better from the side but suspect top access is the best available.

image is of the 1.33 6 speed a block of wood and a jack under the gearbox and undo the engine mount may help with access

pm me if you need the service manual

edit. just looked it up factory uses a sst (cut out socket like you would use on a o2 sensor) 09817-16011 

edit 2. 27mm long socket and cut a gap on the side

by the power of google

https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/how-to-make-sst-09817-16011-special-service-tool-for-h55f-back-up-switch-use-more.1035178/

Job done and it was a lucky guess, it was the reverse switch on the gearbox.  I guessed it was a dirty contact as the bulb end was only receiving 3v not 12v which was not enough to light the bulb.   I didn't check the fuses because according to this web page, the same fuse runs loads of other stuff including fuel injection and as everything else worked including the engine I suspected the switch. So just in case people are having the same problem and finding this in search engines, here is how I swapped the reverse switch. I tried removing a wheel but this didn't help so it was all done from the top in the engine bay.

First up, its impossible to see either the switch or the wiring connection. The usual tricks of phone photos and mirror did not work, I did it all by feel.  First up was disconnect the connector. Having identified the switch by feel ( its a large 27mm nut with 2 wires coming off it located as per the diagram above) . Its at the back of the engine bay, don't confuse it with the thing at the front which looks like the switch but is not.  Anyway having found the switch, I ran my fingers along the wire to find the connector which is located on top of the gearbox but to the left / engine side and hidden under various pipes. The connector is mounted on a metal bracket. It has an arrow shaped plastic connector which pushes through a hole and then the arrow shapes act like barbs to stop it coming out. On the bench you can push the barbs in and pull the connector free from its mount, however in the confines of the engine bay I just used force as it was going to be replaced anyway. Key is not to damage the wire in as that's still needed. Once the connector is free from its mount, you are granted the luxury of being able to see it, not that it helps much.  The connector is the usual sort where if you squeeze a tab then it pulls apart, however working where its impossible to see and I could not feel the tab I just squeezed it in every direction while pulling until it came apart.  

Now to the switch end. Its 27mm and to remove it you need  either a 27mm crows foot socket or better still a 27mm 27mm sensor removal socket. There is no room to get a spanner on it, I  tried. These sensor removal sockets are a long reach socket with a groove cut in for the wire. Great tool but I didn't have one and as my MOT is up I didn't have time to wait for one to be ordered. As my switch was going to be binned I cut the wire. I didn't like doing this in case I was cutting the wrong wire, but needs be as needs must. I the n removed the sensor with a normal 27mm socket. It was a bit tight so I switched to my breaker bar to crack it open. Even if I had a spanner on it, it would have been too tight but with breaker bar it was an easy one hand job.  

The old wire is fitted with about 3 of these arrow shaped bar connectors which go through holes. I decided it was not work trying the near impossible task of removing them all so I left them in situ for now. Maybe access will be better from under next time its on ramps.  I put the new wire alongside the old. The only thing to watch is that it is not rubbed against the clutch or gear operating mechanisms. I cable tied it out of the way but chose a point where I can easily remove the cable tie in the future.   That was it , job done, tested and working 

Good work 👍. Thanks for the detailed description; I'm sure others will find it helpful.