I have found a new type of radio for the Toyota IQ 1 Din, something like this:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zsPn3E9g-LE

Has anybody try it yet?

New here. 

Bought a 2010 IQ as a little project. It was terribly cheap, but the clutch was on its last legs amongst other things. 

There was a drone from one of the bearings. Replaced the NSR bearing, and it didn't go. So, when I did the clutch I found a couple of hidden "extra's". Some clot had battered the lay shaft bearing, so I had to buy a new driveshaft w/bearing, but whilst it was all in bits I did the front wheel bearings as well. Good thing I did really, as these were knackered to boot. Both inner races dinted! How on earth... 

Anyway, bought 2 pattern bearings made by NAPA. £22 each instead of *GULP* Toyota's parts at £130 each. Mental. 

Anyway, changed both bearings, got car finished and back together, and took for test ride. And this is where it started to fall apart. 

Noticed fairly quickly that the speedometer was reading under. Not good. Was it a sensor? These had come out easily, so I was convinced I hadn't damaged one. So, last culprit - bearing. Speedometer figure is taken from the magnetic ABS ring in the bearing, AFAIK. 

I have done a bit of digging, and found that AutoDoc list either a 64-tooth or a 96-tooth ABS sensor ring in their supplied parts. Spoke to Toyota about this, and they're as good as useless. 

Does anyone else have any ideas on this? Anyone suffered with similar issues? The bearings aren't a small job, so I am thinking is it worth the risk for another £22 bearing of unknown manufacture, or do I plump for the genuine articles? 

Many thanks in advance!

As usual with 11 years old car there were few known things to attend and some which I discovered after purchase. Main are:

• CVT slight wine. Only under load when trying to accelerate from stand still. Also mostly noticed when going on a long downhill. Didn't even heard it on the test drive although the gearbox was well warmed up and I got it for a relatively long one. Booked for CVT fluid change with Toyota and quoted £130. I think they messed the cost up as I cannot see how it can be so cheap. Just the fluid is at least £80. Let's see what would happen and if that would help. Otherwise we'll just drive as I see no point to get to mega money rebuild at this point. 
• Today tried to replace the auxiliary belts, as they are in dreadful condition. Was suppose to be a simple job. However I struggled with some corroded nuts of the plastic guards and the main issue I discovered the belt tensioner for water pump and the generator belt is completely stuck. Not cheap for genuine Toyota at £220. However what is more concerning I see no way to get it out as there is no space to reach for the bottom bolt. The Toyota repair manual I got from eBay (the HTML version) is not great and giving no info on that. Has anyone needed to replace that before?
• The car has really nice black and grey leather interior in excellent condition overall. However the driver seat grey part is slightly worn. Not much, but enough to spoil it. I cannot find colour matched leather dye to sort that out. Wrote to some local leather repair specialists, but they do not bother to respond. I guess to small of a job for them. Any idea where I can get matched dye in Hertfordshire?
• Had to attend some rust on the back wheel arches. I have cleaned it with wire brushes, pained with primer and then with bitumen paint. Hope that's sorted. 
• Usual yellow oxidate of the headlights. Would use the 3M kit and then wrap with PVC transparent film to try to sort them out.
• Hazy fog lights, I might try AliExpress LEDs, not a big deal though.  
• Would need 4 new tyres as although the current have some thread they look old and cracked. Someone replaced the wheels with the original but lesser specs 15-inch ones, so that at least mean more choice and less cost.
• Found a bottle of mostly used engine oil in the boot. I know some 1.33 are prone of oil consumption but was hoping latter model would have that fixed. No obvious signs of burning oil. So far I only did 120 miles and the level did not change on the oil stick. Will see how that would go. 

Any advice on above, especially the belt tensioner would be welcome 🙂

My car is aiming for 1200 rpm to save fuel. Is that to low? I have mild vibrations but car runs good. When I put lever in S its butter smooth and reach about 2000rpm. 

Please tell if you car does the same and trying to reach 1200rpm. 

Dont forget to tell your engine and what gearbox. 

To go to the begining of the story, my reverse light is out and its not the bulb. Measuring the connector it is giving 3v instead of 12v. Any suggestions? Also is there any way of turning the ignition on without running the engine? Pressing start and not the clutch seems to just cause aux to turn on and reverse lights are not operable in that mode. Its difficult to diagnose while sitting in the drivers seat

Now my Battery voltage is very fluctuating while driving. I can monitor that on a USB outlet with voltmeter.

While driving its 12,2 or close around that. While accelerating also 12,2.
But.. when i take my foot off the pedal it goes upto 14,1-14,4v. Every time again i see it jump up and down.
To make it even more strange, at idle it shows 12,2v in every gear but when i shift to P its suddenly 14v.

Is something wrong with alternator or maybe it is the voltage sensor like in ´flickering lights´ topic ? How to check?
 

IQ 2011 1.3 Manual.

thanks a lot.

The previous owner had changed them. I checked today are they are Denso IKH20TT. On parts site I’ve seen SK16HR11 mentioned and SC16HR11  I noticed that ILH20TT is listed as suitable from 11/2013  I thought these engines stayed the same during the production run.

The car has a bit of a shake at warm idle that I’m trying to troubleshoot. 

What plugs other 1.0 owners using?

Thanks a lot. Already loving that I only need half a parking space. 

I have found that around where one of the main coolant hoses goes into the engine on the top right there is a very crusty build up of what looks like coolant.

Looking at the manual I cannot seem to find the part that the pipe joins onto or is it part of the engine.

If you look at the pictures below, it does look like the metal part is leaking where the hose connection onto, but I would be surprised if it was that part , is that part replaceable?

I have the 1L manual.

any suggestions? 
Rob.

This happen to me recently on and off.

any idea?

thanks.

Anyone got one in use and what do you think?

Well two years later, I saw a IQ in Cambridge today, a young bloke took off his bike from the tow-bar rails, and it actually has roof bars with a storage box. He was from Germany, I asked him where did he get them? He said bought from eBay.

Must be tow-bar for sale on eBay, looked it nothing.

All afternoon I have been to search for the tow-bar and Roof Rack but no luck, is that really not design for this car? Was other different model that actually fit to the IQ?

I have had my '11 IQ since he was only 42m old and aside from brakes and tyres it seems he is now poorly for the first time

I had his A/C re-gassed Aug '16 and used it every few weeks to keep the tubes lubricated.  Sometime in May '17 i used A/C  and it was no longer cold, today (June '17) i had it re-gassed  twice (first pass reported that it needed more oil) however, it now still blows warm (well, not cold).

It looks as if the compressor is not spinning and the engine tone does not change when the A/C switch in the cabin is activated.

I have checked a 10a fuse in the passenger foot well (No 3) and looked in the 2 engine bay fuse boxes, the passenger side fuse box states that the fuse is shared with the windows and wipers and they do not have a problem.

The engineer thinks that the only other part left is the relay but i cannot locate which this will be, the fuse boxes are labelled in abbreviation.

I phoned Toyota as i hoped they would help however, the guy said that there are two relays related to A/C, one is £55 and the other £74, way too expensive for me to purchase as a diagnostic. He wouldnt give me the part No's so i cannot even order any generics for diagnoses as i cannot locate what relays these may be.

Are any of you IQ'ers able to advise?  

I went to toyota-tech.eu but the guides are chargeable which, if its only £3 for an hr then that would be ok but i dont even know if i would understand them.

Thank you

I don’t seem to be able to make it happen on purpose, there is no notable blowing sound, the car seems to drive normally, there is no oil leak, or anything being left on the ground after being parked up.

So, my guess is there is a slight leak on the exhaust possibly being caused by all the speedbumps around where I am, and the exhaust is flexing at some point and opening and closing a crack maybe?

Any ideas what could be going on or how to diagnose it more.

Steve

As of just a few weeks, I'm now the proud owner of a black 2012 iQ!
So far very happy with the purchase!

Living and working in the city of Oslo, Norway - a city that hates the car more than most.
Our local council has pretty much said that they hate cars, and are attempting to make the city car-free and therefore also parking free within the next few years.

So far parking has been an absolute breeze, even in the inncer city. This thing fits into every nook and cranny, and so far I haven't even had to fill up with fuel (bought it with a full tank).

I've always liked doing little tweaks to my cars, so this will be my build thread.
I'll try to keep it updated as things go along.

First off -
Meet my beaut:

The fluid was very dirty and was far from the transparent red wine colour is started its life as.

There doesn't seem to be any official Toyota Service Intervals for the CVT gearbox and I think a lot of people assume that they are therefore sealed for life. Given the whine I was experiencing with my car I decided to change the CVT fluid myself.

The fluid needed for our CVT equipped cars is the Genuine Toyota CVT FE fluid.

Part number is 08886-02505. You can order the fluid from Toyota Parts with this number.

I have made a crude image to show how the gearbox is drained and then refilled to the correct amount:

You need to remove the drain plug with an allen key head but the fluid inside will not drain much. The inner plastic tube needs to be screwed out with a similar sized allen head key as it is threaded the same as the drain plug. Once removed the fluid will drain.

Once drained insert the inner plastic tube back in and screw it in slowly until it comes to a stop. Do not tighten this with much force, just only very slightly snug.

Leave the drain plug off and remove the fill plug from the top. It is to the left of the Battery and just above the air filter housing. You'll see it. It is a T55.

Once removed you can either choose to fill up the gearbox until the fluid starts to leak through the inner plastic tube or simply replace with the exact same amount that was removed providing you measure it accurately.

Once filled you can put back both the drain and fill plugs.

It is your choice as to how often you wish to change your CVT fluid but I recommend it to everyone who hasn't already done so or has any paperwork to suggest it was already done. I don't believe Toyota would include in any type of regular service so unless it was changed privately by a garage upon request then I don't think it would have been flushed.

Good luck.

just bought my good lady a 2013 IQ in orange and it has the high gloss, slightly chrome looking alloys.

does anybody have a suggestion for touch up paint for the wheels, Many thanks

my exhaust heat shield fell off the fittings last night on the way back from London to Birmingham all fitting hole look some what rusted out despite being made of aluminium hmm 🤔 I’m somewhat confused 

anyway need a new one can’t find one anywhere checked online no joy phoned around no help.. I am crying 😢 my heart hurts my IQ is off road at the moment 

can anyone please help me locate source the part I’m in Birmingham. It’s for the rear section from the back box to middle section thank you 🙏🏼 

kind regards 

Tried to plug in a bluetooth dongle into obd port but getting nothing. Also tried an older style obd reader. 
Has anyone had similar?

Next step is checking if I have any power. I did check the 7.5A fuse (passenger side fuse box) and that’s ok